The Riding Gravel Forum
Register Calendar Latest Topics Chat
 
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment  
NoCoGreg

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 206
Reply with quote  #1 
This is a problem I encountered on my new Roker Sport, but in searching the Web it seems to happen with other bikes as well.

The basic issue is this series of Shimano's front derailleurs didn't anticipate the cable routing of the Roker which happens to be similar to a number of other bikes.

In short, if one uses the cable routing instructions in Shimano's Dealer Manual (see link below) it is impossible to adjust the derailleur to not rub either the high setting (big ring, small cassette cog) or low setting (small ring, large cog).
http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-FD0002-05-ENG.pdf

Root cause is the Roker's cable routing in the center of the bottom bracket shell (read: no left nor right offset).  This cable routing makes it impossible to get the correct leverage resulting in too little cable pull. 

The setup which works is:
  - "Converter in On Position" see screenshot from the manual.
  - Route cable to the right of the Converter Pin and secure on the right side of the cable attach bolt.

I'm attaching 3 images which hopefully will help.

Final note - This generation of FD's require A LOT of cable tension for proper operation.  Definitely recommend reading the above mentioned FD manual.  I inserted a 6mm cable into the derailleur to hold the cage in the proper position when setting the tension.
Shimano FD Converter Setup.jpg  Tiagra Front Derailleur Setup2.jpg  Tiagra Front Derailleur Setup1.jpg 


0
jjbnum3

Member
Registered:
Posts: 23
Reply with quote  #2 
Thanks for the write up on the FD of the Roker. I'll have to read more about it latter today.
It is late here.But you are saying the Roker Sport has the correct setting but does not work the best?

0
NoCoGreg

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 206
Reply with quote  #3 
JJ, Yes that's correct...  BUT according to the Shimano manual the Roker should be fine with the converter on or off but that simply was not the case with my bike & derailleur.

I still need to do some more tweaking as the FD still rubs some when I'm on the big chainring and either of the two largest cassette cogs.  Per Shimano I should be able to cross-chain without any rubbing if the "high trim" is set properly. I thot I had this fixed.  Ugh!  On the positive side, I have a used 10spd SRAM Red setup which may find it's way onto the Roker if I can't sort this out soon.

One additional note - the Tiagra 4700 shifters/derailleurs are incompatible with all prior 10spd shifter/derailleurs.  I'm speculating the 4700 derailleurs have the same cable pull as the 11spd Dura-ace/Ultegra/105 derailleurs which is different from the 10spd versions.

0
Zurichman

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 590
Reply with quote  #4 
So did you get this fixed NoCoGreg?

Zman

__________________
If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
0
NoCoGreg

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 206
Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman
So did you get this fixed NoCoGreg?

Zman

Unfortunately not yet...  I've been working with the Raleigh folks. They gave me some ideas but so far they haven't worked.  I'm taking the bike back to a LBS which looked at it once before.  If he can't get it working this time the Raleigh folks want him to contact them directly.  I've got my fingers crossed...

BTW - the 10spd 11-34 cassette with a 50/34 crankset is IMHO very wide gearing and has some large jumps for my preference.  If this were an 11spd it would probably be perfect. Hmmmmm...  :-)

0
Zurichman

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 590
Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoCoGreg

Unfortunately not yet...  I've been working with the Raleigh folks. They gave me some ideas but so far they haven't worked.  I'm taking the bike back to a LBS which looked at it once before.  If he can't get it working this time the Raleigh folks want him to contact them directly.  I've got my fingers crossed...

BTW - the 10spd 11-34 cassette with a 50/34 crankset is IMHO very wide gearing and has some large jumps for my preference.  If this were an 11spd it would probably be perfect. Hmmmmm...  :-)



Shows you how much I know about the components on my bike. I actually thought my bike(Tamland 1)was a 11 speed until I went out and counted it. I did talk a few times with Leif at Raleigh about doing some warranty work on this bike because the intergrated seat post collar was scratched up but never took them up on it. My bike was also to be spec with the 46/34 gearing but came thru with the 50/34 instead. I am still trying to learn all this. I thought the 50 would give me a higher high speed/ Do you like the 46/34 instead and since I already have the 50/34 Shimano crank I could just replace it with a 46 if I decide to do the conversion. My rear was also changed out to 11x36 Sram with the road link' 

Another thing that is going thru the back of my mind. My Tamland with the Sram 11x36 isn't working as well as I would like. I get what I guess you call chain slap in the high 2-3 gears when I stop pedaling real quick. That is I guess a bad habit for me to break as I have always ridden like that even on my road bikes. I would hate to spend all that money on the Roker and still have it do that. I do have the stock 11x34 yet that I never rode much because of the Tamland being in my mind heavy and tuff for me to climb my local mt. If I did get in shape the Roker probably would climb well enough with the 11x34 without putting the 11x36 on it with the road link. Decisions/decisions

Thanks
Zman

__________________
If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
0
jjbnum3

Member
Registered:
Posts: 23
Reply with quote  #7 
NoCoGreg did you get the 2016 Red sport Roker?Looks like you went from 46 to 50 in the big ring?Or did it come with the 50?
I like red over mostly  black(2017).

Quote:

Shows you how much I know about the components on my bike. I actually thought my bike(Tamland 1)was a 11 speed until I went out and counted it. I did talk a few times with Leif at Raleigh about doing some warranty work on this bike because the intergrated seat post collar was scratched up but never took them up on it. My bike was also to be spec with the 46/34 gearing but came thru with the 50/34 instead. I am still trying to learn all this. I thought the 50 would give me a higher high speed/ Do you like the 46/34 instead and since I already have the 50/34 Shimano crank I could just replace it with a 46 if I decide to do the conversion. My rear was also changed out to 11x36 Sram with the road link'


I thought both 2016/2017 Tamland 1 came with 11 speed 105.34/46t The cranks are not 105,cost savings.Do you have the green 2017 model?
I'm not to good on knowing the best gearing.But I would want 46t at the most if doing most riding off road with hills.
Maybe someone with more gravel riding can help out.

0
Zurichman

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 590
Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjbnum3
NoCoGreg did you get the 2016 Red sport Roker?Looks like you went from 46 to 50 in the big ring?Or did it come with the 50?
I like red over mostly  black(2017).



I thought both 2016/2017 Tamland 1 came with 11 speed 105.34/46t The cranks are not 105,cost savings.Do you have the green 2017 model?
I'm not to good on knowing the best gearing.But I would want 46t at the most if doing most riding off road with hills.
Maybe someone with more gravel riding can help out.



jjbnum3 Yes I have the Black/red 2016 Tamland 1 and although it was to come thru with the 46/34 crank mine came thru with a 50/34. My crank(Gossamer FSA) has been switched out now to a Shimano 105. Yes checked mine once again this morning and it's a 11. I swapped out the stock 11 - 34 Shimano to a 11 - 36 Sram with a road link.

Zman

__________________
If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
0
Zurichman

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 590
Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoCoGreg

Unfortunately not yet...  I've been working with the Raleigh folks. They gave me some ideas but so far they haven't worked.  I'm taking the bike back to a LBS which looked at it once before.  If he can't get it working this time the Raleigh folks want him to contact them directly.  I've got my fingers crossed...

BTW - the 10spd 11-34 cassette with a 50/34 crankset is IMHO very wide gearing and has some large jumps for my preference.  If this were an 11spd it would probably be perfect. Hmmmmm...  :-)



NoCoGreg I looked at my Tamland again this morning and yes it is a 11 speed. So your Sport only came through as a 10 speed then? Good luck in getting you bike fixed. I am beginning to wonder if there is actually standard gearing on these bikes as Raleigh was somewhat surprised that my bike came thru with the 50/34 Gossamer FSA crank and was willing to do something for me when I tacoed the 50 outside front ring at that one ride but I never took them up on it.


Zman

__________________
If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
0
NoCoGreg

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 206
Reply with quote  #10 
Zman - yes my Roker Sport's components arrived exactly as the spec called out.  For me the 50/34 crankset is perfect.  If I ever went to something different I'd be looking for a smaller BCD on the crankset to fit a lower first gear, but now that the industry seems to be shifting back to larger cassette sprockets (36 and larger). Thus I don't expect to be replacing chainrings/cranksets anytime soon.  That said, a crankset with a 30t inner chainring does look interesting.  A 46/30 could be mated to an 11/32 11 speed cassette for low gears and relatively close jumps.  

My preference is for a crankset with as large a jump as possible.  With 10 or 11 speed cassettes I don't shift the front much as the rear shifts so much quicker and reliably.  I also try to find a setup such that I'm comfortable in the large chainring for most of my miles as I can use all of the cassette cogs from the large chainring, but if I'm on the small chainring there is one or two sprockets where the chain starts to hit the large chainring.  Besides, I'm a masher and tend to have a low cadence.

To your comment on "standard gearing".  Bike companies usually have an * with a disclaimer that the spec's are "subject to change without notice".  That covers them in case there is an issue with a parts supplier or they identify a problem with a specific component. 

0
Zurichman

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 590
Reply with quote  #11 
NoCoGreg I had to go to the Raleigh site to look up the specs on your Roker Sport. Kind of a mixed bag set up. On one hand it has the 3rd water bottle mount like the Comp but then on the other hand it has 10 speed and tiagra derailleur components while the Tamland has the 105 and 11 speed. I guess maybe we can thank Ted Guitar here for helping Raleigh design the bike with those components. I still have no idea why they gave up on the Roker and lots of their mt. bike designs.

Zman

__________________
If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
0
Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply

Quick Navigation:

Easily create a Forum Website with Website Toolbox.