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Gannon311

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Reply with quote  #1 
Is there something I'm missing ? I don't see many if any people running Crest mk3's for gravel. The hoops are lighter than most gravel/road hoops and I rage them on my mtn bike(hardtail) so I know they will handle the abuse. I have a 2018 carbon diverge that will handle 40 ish tire and I weigh 170. Any reason I shouldn't use crests?
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owly

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Reply with quote  #2 
As most people run 700c wheels on gravel, I think it would be due to the Crests max psi rating. i.e. they are marketed as a mtb rim (lower pressure end), rather than a gravel rim like the Grail.

I'd check the numbers on the Crest, against what pressure you want to run those 40's at.
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ljsmith

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Reply with quote  #3 
I have some 650b Crest wheels and I am personally not a fan, they are flexy and go out of true easily.  They are very light though at 1350g with AC hubs and CX-ray spokes.
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Pynchonite

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Reply with quote  #4 
I've been railing a set of Crest ZTR's on (in order) my 29er touring bike, my XC race bike, and now my gravel bike and I have loved them.  They've been plenty stiff and burly (I toured, fully loaded, across 200 miles of dirt on them without needing to true them when I got home). 

However, that was the Crest ZTR.  The MK3 is about 2mm wider, which is pretty wide for a gravel rim.  Most of the tires are designed for rims with an internal width of 19-21mm wide, which the ZTR's sit right at 21mm.  With that extra width, the tread squares off and you lose some cornering ability due to shoulder knobs pointing straight down instead of diagonally to the ground.

Second thing is, like owly said, the max pressures that you can run with a gravel tire on that rim are pretty low.  I run my Panaracer Gravel King SK 35mm's (which blimp out to 40mm on that wide rim) at a max of 45 PSI.  While this is still high enough to allow me to keep up w/ my roadie friends, it's not all that high.  Granted, race PSI for a lot of those tires is like 35ish PSI, but for every day riding, that's pretty low.
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ReverendWrong

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Reply with quote  #5 
I've not had the best luck with Stan's wheels. Had a 3.30 freehub  with <1000 miles on it fail without warning on my mountain bike while climbing about 6% grade (and I'm not a powerful rider). I had a set of Crests on my Vaya and they provided a great feel at low pressure with wide tires (42mm Spec. Sawtooths and 40mm WTB Nanos). With the big tires, I never ran them over 50 psi, so that wasn't an issue. However, on my third visit in 6 months to my LBS to have them trued, the mechanic told me those rims are made from 'butter and tears'. Could definitely feel the flex when out of the saddle. I've heard newer Stan's hubs are beefier, so if you are <175 lbs., run wider tires at low pressures, don't beat up your gear and want a light weight wheelset on a budget, they might be an OK choice. I'm currently running American Classic Mountain Bike Race wheelset and much happier with these.
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jmcgukin

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Reply with quote  #6 
Curious if the people who already posted here about bad luck with the crest staying true were the pre-MK3 model or the newest model which should have more lateral stiffness?
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sgtrobo

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcgukin
Curious if the people who already posted here about bad luck with the crest staying true were the pre-MK3 model or the newest model which should have more lateral stiffness?


I had MK3s on my Scalpel. I bent them multiple times, broke spokes, they came out of true every few rides, and I pretty much destroyed the free hub, and I was not using the bike as an enduro bike. I rode nothing you couldn't ride on a hard trail

I have Arch MK3s, had Arch EX and Flow EX. They were bulletproof on my touring bikes, loaded down, my old Stumpjumper, and now the Arch MK3s on my Scalpel. Of course, I had them built up with DTS 350 hubs

Crests are fine for lightweight riders and non-aggressive riders. If you're a bigger dude, steer clear. I'd consider them for a gravel bike, but Roval Control carbon 29ers are about as light and way stronger, for an extra $150ish
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ljsmith

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Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcgukin
Curious if the people who already posted here about bad luck with the crest staying true were the pre-MK3 model or the newest model which should have more lateral stiffness?


Mine were pre MK3.  But I see absolutely no reason why the MK3 would be any stiffer.  No matter how you design your rim, a 360g 23mm internal width aluminum 29" rim is going to be flexy.  360g is crazy light for a rim that size, Stans road rims aren't even that light.  If you are 130 lbs, then it would probably be fine.   If you are of a normal weight, they are going to be flexy and you will spend a lot of time truing them.  If you "rage them" on your mountain bike, I would be shocked if your wheels are still spinning true.
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oleritter

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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljsmith


Mine were pre MK3.  But I see absolutely no reason why the MK3 would be any stiffer.  No matter how you design your rim, a 360g 23mm internal width aluminum 29" rim is going to be flexy.  360g is crazy light for a rim that size, Stans road rims aren't even that light.  If you are 130 lbs, then it would probably be fine.   If you are of a normal weight, they are going to be flexy and you will spend a lot of time truing them.  If you "rage them" on your mountain bike, I would be shocked if your wheels are still spinning true.


This sums it up pretty well.  How can a rim be 100 grams/20 percent lighter than it's peers, and be equal in strength/stiffness?  It can't.  And with rims flexing too much under you, you'll start having spoke breakage, too. If the rim lasts that long.

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Raymo853

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Reply with quote  #10 
I have not heard good things about the Crest Mk3s. Primarily from the Just riding Along crew. It seems Stn's choice to make them wider, lighter, and out of a different alloy has caused lots of problems for many riders. 
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Volsung

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Reply with quote  #11 
My Nextie Premiums are a similar weight but can tolerate my hefty 205 lbs putting miles on them. They were about 200 bucks a rim which isn't a ton more.

I never do stock wheelset though, so most of my cost is in hubs, spokes, and the labor. But then I get free truing should I ever need it.
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dangle

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Reply with quote  #12 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gannon311
Is there something I'm missing ? I don't see many if any people running Crest mk3's for gravel. The hoops are lighter than most gravel/road hoops and I rage them on my mtn bike(hardtail) so I know they will handle the abuse. I have a 2018 carbon diverge that will handle 40 ish tire and I weigh 170. Any reason I shouldn't use crests?


I have two pairs of pre-mk3 for cyclocross and gravel use and am hunting around for a new or lightly used mk3 set. I'm around 190 lbs. Both pre-mk3 have been re-tensioned at least once and gets little touch ups in the truing stand every couple weeks of riding. I highly recommend doing the tension WITH the tires mounted at their running pressures. These are the only rims I have seen (not that I am a wheelbuilder) that will lose significant tension with a super tight tire (WTB, Schwalbe) bead mounted. Like rims shifted a couple mm towards the non-driveside significant.


I certainly don't take it easy on them for Cat 3 CX. I run my gravel tires (40mm Schwable G Ones) at 27-31 psi so I can't say I have ever used much pressure on them. They have required more attention than any wheels I have ever owned, but that's the price you pay to have crazy light rims. Unless it's very muddy, I'll take WTB or Schwalbe clinchers at mid 20 psi on Crest rims (with much more volume) than tubulars with barely any volume. I don't really care for 'gravel' riding since there's rarely any acceleration or I have several pounds of other crap strapped to me or the bike. I think the Crests are a poor choice for strictly gravel riding.....but use them for gravel 'racing' the couple times a year that time matters.

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