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DPCX

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Reply with quote  #51 
Haha! I sent you an IM. I also just realized all the Maxway produced frames from Taiwan were painted at the assembly factory in China. This gives them the right to put on the made in China sticker. 
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squak

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Reply with quote  #52 

I spent some quality time in the garage tinkering with my Roker Comp this weekend and found a couple of things that other owners might find useful.

From the beginning shifting performance was just OK, but I chalked it up to getting used to SRAM Double Tap.  500 miles later I’m still convinced that Shimano STI is the better system, but decided to look at my setup to see if anything was misadjusted, misaligned, etc.  I was one of the unlucky people who received my bike with a bent derailleur hanger and made the mistake of assuming the new replacement hanger was straight—nope, the new hanger needed to be aligned.  I also replaced the shifter cable—mostly because routing it to the right side of the head tube/down tube looks wrong and adds an unnecessary extra bend.  When I removed the cable I was disappointed to find that it was badly kinked in 3 or 4 places.  Whoever installed the cable/housing is seriously ham-fisted and probably hates internal cable routing.  Running a new cable through the frame isn’t too difficult and I didn’t mind going through the process of figuring it out.  When I replaced the cable I also fine-tuned the b-screw, high/low stops and cable tension.  Shifting is noticeably improved—requires less force at the shift lever and the chain is less “reluctant” as it moves up/down the cassette.

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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #53 
Thanks for that info squak. If I only could get some decent weather now and looks like the rain today might just wash some of that salt off the road.

Zman

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zimdba

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Reply with quote  #54 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoCoGreg
I've got the Roker Sport - same frame/fork as the comp but the parts are downgraded: Tiagra 2x10 drivetrain instead of SRAM 1x11, and TRP mech. disk's instead of the hydraulic.  I think everything else is pretty much the same...

I've only been out for a couple short rides as I'm having difficulty dialing in the Tiagra's FD.  Despite my best efforts I can't seem to get the cable tight enough to avoid the FD rubbing when I'm in the 11t cog. Ugh!!!   One of the issues (IMO) is the limited range of the in-line cable adjustment barrel.  The frame mount adjusters offer much greater range.  The Tiagra 10spd shifter might also be part of the problem.  I'm almost at the point of pulling off the drivetrain and replacing it with a SRAM Red group I have from a prior bike...

As for ride, the long rake and relaxed HT angle provide for a very stable ride and lots of toe clearance with the stock 40mm Clement tires.  The bike loves to be counter steered (aka leaning into turns) and is forgiving when changing the line during a corner (read: not at all twitchy).  As expected with this geometry, at slow speeds one can feel the wheel flop but it's not so much as to create a problem.  Despite the wheel flop I'm comfortable making tight figure 8's.

The frame has a nice stiff BB and chain stays.  Lots of jump when I stand...  Well lots of jump for a bike with 40mm tires. :-)

The TRP Spyre mech disk brakes work well - I can definitely feel increased brake force over my bikes with canti's.  Since the pads haven't been bedded-in, I expect stopping will only improve.  I don't know if anyone has tried this, but it appears one could add an adapter to fit a larger diameter disk on the front to get even more stopping power...  

Is anyone running the Clement MSO's tubeless with sealant?  The rims are supposed to be tubeless ready and I'd like to go that direction in the future.  God bless the goathead bushes![frown]

BTW, in case anyone is comparing... 
Weight of the stock 60cm Roker Sport is 21.7 pounds without pedals, bottle cages, pump and pack.  Fully configured it's right at 24 pounds.

Changes:
1. Replaced the stock seat with a Sella that fits my butt.
2. Will get Tiagra shifting working or replace the drive train.
3. Will replace stock bars with some 3T carbon for a smoother ride and shape to match other bikes.
4. Will go tubeless... it's just a matter of time.

Cheers,
Greg




I would also look at replacing the seatpost.  I found that to be a big help in comfort.  I'm actually OK with the handlebars.  I don't get too much fatigue in the hands/shoulders.

As far as the Clements: I thought they were great, until they wouldn't seal.  I had one puncture, and I couldn't get it to seal because all of the sealant had dried out after 3 weeks.  OK, that's on me to check, but I thought 3 weeks was a little soon for it to dry out.  So back at home, I tried to get it to seal.  I ended up getting sealant all over the bike because the tire just would not seal.

I decided that I couldn't risk a tire not sealing out in the field.  I ended up throwing both tires in the trash and replacing them with true tubeless tires (Maxxis Ramblers).  They're very grippy, maybe not the fastest rolling tire.  I checked my sealant level after 6 weeks or so, and the sealant level was fine.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #55 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zimdba


I would also look at replacing the seatpost.  I found that to be a big help in comfort.  I'm actually OK with the handlebars.  I don't get too much fatigue in the hands/shoulders.

As far as the Clements: I thought they were great, until they wouldn't seal.  I had one puncture, and I couldn't get it to seal because all of the sealant had dried out after 3 weeks.  OK, that's on me to check, but I thought 3 weeks was a little soon for it to dry out.  So back at home, I tried to get it to seal.  I ended up getting sealant all over the bike because the tire just would not seal.

I decided that I couldn't risk a tire not sealing out in the field.  I ended up throwing both tires in the trash and replacing them with true tubeless tires (Maxxis Ramblers).  They're very grippy, maybe not the fastest rolling tire.  I checked my sealant level after 6 weeks or so, and the sealant level was fine.


zimdba

Being the newbie here how do you check the sealant in your tires?

Zman

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zimdba

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Reply with quote  #56 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


zimdba

Being the newbie here how do you check the sealant in your tires?

Zman


The Orange Seal kit came with a dipstick.  I think it's supposed to read about 1/8".  I'd have to measure the mark.  Remove the core, check it like your oil, replace the core.
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langdalek

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Reply with quote  #57 
I also purchased a Roker Comp a few weeks back. This is my first gravel/road bike as I grew up solely riding mountain bikes. The packing on my bike pretty much mimics what everyone else has said...hole with derailleur sticking out the box. The hanger was badly bent with the derailleur smashed into the spokes of the rear wheel. I also had a substantially large hole in the top  of the box where you could reach inside the box and grab the wheel and bike frame. Luckily, after unpacking, the bike was in great shape and there was no further damage to the bike or wheels.  Roker 1.jpg  Roker 2.jpg  Roker.jpg 
I also ordered a new hanger from 925 Engineering http://www.925engineering.com/Raleigh_c_48.html because it seemed like there was a pretty good chance it was going to be shipped bent.
Hanger 1.jpg  Hanger.jpg 
I ordered the 62cm since I am 6'5" 205lbs. with a 36" inseam. I haave commuted a few times to work and absolutely LOVE this bike! I am currently running the tire tubless and have an appointment next Thursday to get the bike fitted to me. commute 1.jpg  commute.jpg 

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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #58 
Langdalek Dang looks like they threw your bike in from an open top Fedex truck. I thought my box looked bad. I would still contact Raleigh USA to get them to send you another hangar so you have a spare. Mine at the LBS cost around $20 - 425. Enjoy that bike.

Zman

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jjbnum3

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Reply with quote  #59 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yakswak
I don’t think FEDEX handled the bike wrong. Raleigh should unattach the rear derrailuer when shipping.


Add me to the list of receiving A damage Raleigh Roker.[frown]
The box was in good shape(Fedex).Raleigh even added extra cardboard around the
derailleur.I agree they need to ship their bikes with derailleur off,at least with their carbon frames ones.The two steel Raleigh I order from Amazon last month had no damage.One was A Carlton 8 Mixte  for my wife.

The hanger was bent with the derailleur smashed into the spokes of the rear wheel.Filled out the warranty info today.I'm going to ask for A replacement or see if they can have A local dealer fix it.

And I made of mistake of unwrapping most of the packing before checking the  derrailur/hanger for damage.

RALEIGHROKER4.jpg 

 


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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #60 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjbnum3


Add me to the list of receiving A damage Raleigh Roker.[frown]
The box was in good shape(Fedex).Raleigh even added extra cardboard around the
derailleur.I agree they need to ship their bikes with derailleur off,at least with their carbon frames ones.The two steel Raleigh I order from Amazon last month had no damage.One was A Carlton 8 Mixte  for my wife.

The hanger was bent with the derailleur smashed into the spokes of the rear wheel.Filled out the warranty info today.I'm going to ask for A replacement or see if they can have A local dealer fix it.

And I made of mistake of unwrapping most of the packing before checking the  derrailur/hanger for damage.

RALEIGHROKER4.jpg 

 



Dang jjbnum3 I work for a big box company in the tool department. Over Christmas time we get lots of tool boxes in that looks to be no damage. They put too much weight on top of them and there is hidden damage. I am wondering if this is what's happening to our Raleigh bikes. I still don't think the dealers would be putting up with this so they must be getting lots of bikes in at a time and better handling from Fedex versus our single shipment bikes.

Zman

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jjbnum3

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Reply with quote  #61 
Quote:
They put too much weight on top of them and there is hidden damage. I am wondering if this is what's happening to our Raleigh bikes.


Really kind of surprise how many Roker owners just on this forum had the derailleur hanger bent right out of the box.
If I understand it correct it is meant to break or bend to save the frame.



S
ite maybe can use  A official Raleigh roker thread?

Anyone know is the Roker front derailleur Band On size is it 34.9mm?
I measured and chatted with Raleigh it is 34.9mm clamp on.

Thinking of upgrading to Shimano Ultegra.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #62 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjbnum3


Really kind of surprise how many Roker owners just on this forum had the derailleur hanger bent right out of the box.
If I understand it correct it is meant to break or bend to save the frame.



S
ite maybe can use  A official Raleigh roker thread?

Anyone know is the Roker front derailleur Band On size is it 34.9mm?
Thinking of upgrading to Shimano Ultegra.


jjbnum3 If you look up the Roker Sports specs I think it is set up 2x with Shimano.Same bike just weighs 2 lbs more than the Roker Comp. Also yo could go over to gravel cyclist.com and look up 17.4 lbs. of sweetness where JOM stripped down a Roker Sport and made it that light. Good luck

Zman

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jjbnum3

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Reply with quote  #63 

I'm still waiting for my replacement RD hanger from Raleigh.Going call the Raleigh dealer that is about 25 miles away from my house tomorrow and
see if they have the part in stock.

I know these bikes got damage during shipping.But I believe Raleigh should offer to send the bike to the local dealer to be fix at their cost.Not just send out A replacement hanger in the snail mail.I might send my bike back,even though the price was right.But it is the cost of buying online sometimes.I bought quite A few bikes online over the years.This is the 2nd bike I received that had the same damage.The other was A Raleigh Tamland from Amazon warehouse deals.And they gave me A extra discount to get the parts repaired and replaced.

Okay I'll start A official Raleigh roker or Raleigh  thread sooner or latter.I'm still enjoy their bikes.The Redux 3 is A fun bike to ride around town or shorter dirt rides.

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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #64 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjbnum3

I'm still waiting for my replacement RD hanger from Raleigh.Going call the Raleigh dealer that is about 25 miles away from my house tomorrow and
see if they have the part in stock.

I know these bikes got damage during shipping.But I believe Raleigh should offer to send the bike to the local dealer to be fix at their cost.Not just send out A replacement hanger in the snail mail.I might send my bike back,even though the price was right.But it is the cost of buying online sometimes.I bought quite A few bikes online over the years.This is the 2nd bike I received that had the same damage.The other was A Raleigh Tamland from Amazon warehouse deals.And they gave me A extra discount to get the parts repaired and replaced.

Okay I'll start A official Raleigh roker or Raleigh  thread sooner or latter.I'm still enjoy their bikes.The Redux 3 is A fun bike to ride around town or shorter dirt rides.




jjbnum3 I took my bike to a Raleigh dealer around 10 miles from my house. They took a hangar off another bike which wasn't exact but worked on my bike and then Raleigh sent the hangar direct to the shop. This was done all within about a week time frame if I remember right. I was going to turn a bill into Raleigh but they didn't charge me for the repair since they were a Raleigh dealer.

Zman

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jjbnum3

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Reply with quote  #65 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman



jjbnum3 I took my bike to a Raleigh dealer around 10 miles from my house. They took a hangar off another bike which wasn't exact but worked on my bike and then Raleigh sent the hangar direct to the shop. This was done all within about a week time frame if I remember right. I was going to turn a bill into Raleigh but they didn't charge me for the repair since they were a Raleigh dealer.

Zman


Thanks for the info.I talked to Raleigh last week and the hanger came today.I think I'm also going to take it to one of the Raleigh dealers around Sacramento instead of A LBS.And just do some shopping at Costco the same day.
My town has neither.The weather is really warm for this time of year.So
I'll have to ride my endurance bike until the Roker gets  A new hanger.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #66 
Ok I probably have a dilemma here at my end. I have 2 LBS that I use. One is a authorized Raleigh dealer but he only sells bikes to the Amish and Mennonites as his main customers and then he has I guess a few customers like me come in. He is what I would call a Mom and Pops bike dealership. The original owner(probably had the shop for 30 years)has passed the torch over to one of his relatives probably in his twenties. They are a great place for sure to buy accessories as he is always cheaper than anyone else. The other shop the guy has probably been in business for about 10 years(checked and it is 5 years onlyu but worked in other shops when he was in the service)but does lots of mt bike/gravel bike stuff.


Now for the question. When I went to price out the price of converting my Roker over from 1x Sram to 2x Shimano the shop that does all the mt bike stuff wanted $1000 for the conversion and trading all my Sram parts in. I was going to use a Shimano 50/34 105 crank off my Tamland as he replaced it when I tacoed the outside front ring on my last gravel race when I must have hit something. The Mom and Pops Raleigh shop has priced it out and wants $618 to convert everything over plus getting my Sram stuff back.

I guess this also might play into my decision making. I plan on retiring in 2-3 years and the thoughts are I might be driving versus flying to some of my races in the Mid West/South or wherever I was racing. If I had everything set up the same aka Shimano if something broke I could replace it off the other bike. I also then could have 2 different bike set ups the Roker probably for dry conditions and the Tamland for muddy/wet conditions. There has always been a talk when we discussed bikes of getting a lighter wheel set which would cost about $500 - $600. If I do the Shimano switch I probably wouldn't get another lighter wheel set for the Roker until next season. I plan on at least taking the Roker out for another ride or so to see if I can get use to the shifting.

Oh if I get the conversion done at the Raleigh dealer I probably won't be able to take the bike to the other LBS because he will become pissed and I won't be able to tell him that he was $400 higher.  

Thoughts or suggestions
Thanks Zman

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zimdba

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Reply with quote  #67 
We had a guy here in town who was very mountain-bike focused.  No one who took their road bikes to him ever felt like he was any good.  I'm not sure how different of a skill-set it is, but that's just one example.  He's out of business now.

If one guy is going to be pissed that you went to the other LBS, that's not the guy I would go to for anything.

I clearly have more options than you, but I bought everything online, and can install everything myself.  I'll bring it in to my LBS for new cables and bar tape.  The shop I take it to hasn't ever said anything, and appreciates my business.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #68 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zimdba
We had a guy here in town who was very mountain-bike focused.  No one who took their road bikes to him ever felt like he was any good.  I'm not sure how different of a skill-set it is, but that's just one example.  He's out of business now.

If one guy is going to be pissed that you went to the other LBS, that's not the guy I would go to for anything.

I clearly have more options than you, but I bought everything online, and can install everything myself.  I'll bring it in to my LBS for new cables and bar tape.  The shop I take it to hasn't ever said anything, and appreciates my business.


I live here in rural Pa. good LBS or bike shops are hard to find. This is the only 2 within 20-30 miles I would trust. Then around 30 miles away there is one when every time I go to it has that big city feel as everything is marked up. There is another one I use to go 50 miles away(Harrisburg)that I liked but it was hit or miss on whether I could get my bike fixed there right then instead of just dropping it off. The shop that knows that I got a smokin deal on the 2 Raleigh's keeps giving me a discussion on how if I keep buying everything online that he might not be there as a shop when I need him. To a point his is right but at the same time I need to save some money to go on some trips lol We had a shop here in the late 80's early 90's that only catered to high end cyclists and not young kids bikes etc. Needless to say he is not around now either. There weren't enough high end bicyclists around back then to support them. There is now.

I guess it comes down to what I really want to do. I only wish the weather would cooperate some. I wanted to have the bike(Roker) all sorted out before the ride in Fl. Dirty Pecan on March 3rd but might have to wait until later this spring.

Zman

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NoCoGreg

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Reply with quote  #69 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman

I guess it comes down to what I really want to do. I only wish the weather would cooperate some. I wanted to have the bike(Roker) all sorted out before the ride in Fl. Dirty Pecan on March 3rd but might have to wait until later this spring.

Zman

I wouldn't feel bad about doing business with either LBS.  The $1k + trade in is a lot of $$$.  The other shop sounds very very inexpensive for what is needed so I would have expected their price to be nearer the first.  

FWIW the Tiagra 10spd front shifting still doesn't work on my Roker Sport. The folks at Raleigh are trying to help.  I'm tempted to pull off the Shimano Tiagra and replace it with some 10spd SRAM Red - the one issue is the RD.  I don't know of a SRAM 10spd road derailleur (the mtn derailleur doesn't have a cable adjust barrel). 

Greg 
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #70 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoCoGreg

I wouldn't feel bad about doing business with either LBS.  The $1k + trade in is a lot of $$$.  The other shop sounds very very inexpensive for what is needed so I would have expected their price to be nearer the first.  

FWIW the Tiagra 10spd front shifting still doesn't work on my Roker Sport. The folks at Raleigh are trying to help.  I'm tempted to pull off the Shimano Tiagra and replace it with some 10spd SRAM Red - the one issue is the RD.  I don't know of a SRAM 10spd road derailleur (the mtn derailleur doesn't have a cable adjust barrel). 

Greg 


NoCoGreg I didn't look your bike(Roker Sport) specs up but is it hydraulic or mechanical Spyre brakes?

Zman

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jjbnum3

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Reply with quote  #71 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman
Ok I probably have a dilemma here at my end. I have 2 LBS that I use. One is a authorized Raleigh dealer but he only sells bikes to the Amish and Mennonites as his main customers and then he has I guess a few customers like me come in. He is what I would call a Mom and Pops bike dealership. The original owner(probably had the shop for 30 years)has passed the torch over to one of his relatives probably in his twenties. They are a great place for sure to buy accessories as he is always cheaper than anyone else. The other shop the guy has probably been in business for about 10 years(checked and it is 5 years onlyu but worked in other shops when he was in the service)but does lots of mt bike/gravel bike stuff.




Thoughts or suggestions
Thanks Zman



You are lucky to still have A authorized Raleigh dealer close.I'm at my dads house in Auburn,Ca,and the two dealers I called that are located  around Sacramento are no longer going  to carry Raleigh brand this year.The whole direct to consumer burned A bridge with many LBS.

Shimano and A few makes have A 48/32 crankset. I'm going to try this out on my endurance bike.But I'm older(I think),clydesdale and lots of hills around here in Auburn. 

Quote:
The Mom and Pops Raleigh shop has priced it out and wants $618.
Yeah I would for the best deal.Just tell the other shop why,I'm sure they'll understand.

Do either of these shops build good custom wheels?So many choices online too.
I would look into getting A basic tool set for some repairs.I bought mine online from A Uk dealer.


Shimano vs. sram.I still have not tried Sram yet.But I'm building A red/force road bike set piece by piece when I find parts on sale,and might even mix it with Shimano to try out sooner or latter. Shimano does cost less.


As for your Roker. That is A tough one.If you for sure want to keep it and like the geometry and the fit.
Yeah do the upgrades.what size Cogset and crank ring size are you planning on using?

I'm still on the fence with my sport.I always planned to build it up with Shimano 11sp.
Going to look at the Giant Anyroad as I like the short ST.Before making up my mind.

I'll add some more latter when I get back home.

Added:
The sport comes with mechanical Spyre brakes.46/36 cranks.
After looking at the  Giant Anyroad A little closer.I'm going to test ride one someday.
But I doubt I'll  buy one.The stack is really high vs. reach on the size I would need.

For now I'm going to keep the Roker.











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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #72 



You are lucky to still have A authorized Raleigh dealer close.I'm at my dads house in Auburn,Ca,and the two dealers I called that are located  around Sacramento are no longer going  to carry Raleigh brand this year.The whole direct to consumer burned A bridge with many LBS.

Shimano and A few makes have A 48/32 crankset. I'm going to try this out on my endurance bike.But I'm older(I think),clydesdale and lots of hills around here in Auburn. 

Yeah I would for the best deal.Just tell the other shop why,I'm sure they'll understand.

Do either of these shops build good custom wheels?So many choices online too.
I would look into getting A basic tool set for some repairs.I bought mine online from A Uk dealer.


Shimano vs. sram.I still have not tried Sram yet.But I'm building A red/force road bike set piece by piece when I find parts on sale,and might even mix it with Shimano to try out sooner or latter. Shimano does cost less.


As for your Roker. That is A tough one.If you for sure want to keep it and like the geometry and the fit.
Yeah do the upgrades.what size Cogset and crank ring size are you planning on using?

I'm still on the fence with my sport.I always planned to build it up with Shimano 11sp.
Going to look at the Giant Anyroad as I like the short ST.Before making up my mind.

I'll add some more latter when I get back home.

Added:
The sport comes with mechanical Spyre brakes.46/36 cranks.
After looking at the  Giant Anyroad A little closer.I'm going to test ride one someday.
But I doubt I'll  buy one.The stack is really high vs. reach on the size I would need.

For now I'm going to keep the Roker.


jjbnum3 look over at gravelcyclist.com on JOM Roker Sport that he built up and got down to 17.3 lbs. or something like that. He would be I guess what I call a weight weenie as he even used ti bolts in the build and a ti QR that probably cost some major bucks. I rode a Giant anyroads bike and it IMHO can't hold a candle to the Tamland or the Roker. Yes I do love my Roker just not used to the Sram shifting. If I change it out probably going with a 46/34 and my Tamland was to come through with the 46/34 but instead came thru with a 50/34 I am guessing I could just swap out the 50 for a 46. I  have a really nasty rutty ill maintained fire tower mt. road that I use to gauge the 2 bikes even though my fitness level is pretty bad right now. The Roker climbed it sweet but what really impressed me was the damping no rough ride coming off the mt. along with the instant stopping of the hydro brakes. Not being a downhill guy it for sure did impress me in that area. The Raleigh's original owner has owned it for probably 30+ years and the other shop sends all his guys there to get his wheels built so when I need a set built I know where to go. His relative pretty much now runs the shop and no I couldn't tell him what I paid for my bikes. I guess that is all for now enjoy your Raleigh's


Zman

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NoCoGreg

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Reply with quote  #73 
Granted I have the lower end Roker Sport, but figured I'd continue the thread...

The front derailleur shifting problems I encountered were in fact due to the front shifter.  The LBS got a warranty replacement shifter from Shimano and that fixed the shifting problems and I can at last use all the gears! :-)

Today I did one of the local lunch time group rides.  It can get  very fast in the summer but in the winter it's more casual and we cruise at 20-ish mph and have a couple long intervals where the pace goes up.  I decided to bring the Roker out as others have been showing up on their new CX and gravel bikes.  With 45/50 PSI front/rear, the Clement 40mm tires roll very nicely making it easy to hang in the pack.  In fact the Roker far exceeded my expectations in how it would respond to accelerations.  Sweet!!!  The longer wheelbase end extra rake give lots of comfort in corners and changing one's line at speed is very smooth and predictable - no twitchy handling here!  If I end up getting a 2nd set of wheels for road specific tires I could see the Roker getting much more use.

One comment on going tubeless with the stock tires.  Clement has two (yes 2) lines of Explor tires - the original tires require tubes and the 2nd line is tubeless specific.  The Clement dealer strongly recommended AGAINST trying to setup Clement's as tubeless - unless of course these are the tubeless specific Clements.  The two reported problems in going tubeless with the tube specific tires are: sealant leaking through the casing, beads which do not seal completely with the rim so they slowly leak.  Some people have had success in running tubeless with the tube tires, but just be aware it may be a messy exercise in futility. 

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zimdba

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Reply with quote  #74 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoCoGreg
Granted I have the lower end Roker Sport, but figured I'd continue the thread...

The front derailleur shifting problems I encountered were in fact due to the front shifter.  The LBS got a warranty replacement shifter from Shimano and that fixed the shifting problems and I can at last use all the gears! :-)

Today I did one of the local lunch time group rides.  It can get  very fast in the summer but in the winter it's more casual and we cruise at 20-ish mph and have a couple long intervals where the pace goes up.  I decided to bring the Roker out as others have been showing up on their new CX and gravel bikes.  With 45/50 PSI front/rear, the Clement 40mm tires roll very nicely making it easy to hang in the pack.  In fact the Roker far exceeded my expectations in how it would respond to accelerations.  Sweet!!!  The longer wheelbase end extra rake give lots of comfort in corners and changing one's line at speed is very smooth and predictable - no twitchy handling here!  If I end up getting a 2nd set of wheels for road specific tires I could see the Roker getting much more use.

One comment on going tubeless with the stock tires.  Clement has two (yes 2) lines of Explor tires - the original tires require tubes and the 2nd line is tubeless specific.  The Clement dealer strongly recommended AGAINST trying to setup Clement's as tubeless - unless of course these are the tubeless specific Clements.  The two reported problems in going tubeless with the tube specific tires are: sealant leaking through the casing, beads which do not seal completely with the rim so they slowly leak.  Some people have had success in running tubeless with the tube tires, but just be aware it may be a messy exercise in futility. 



Funny, I thought the accelerations were pretty sluggish - but my only bike to compare it to is my Madone - which is super responsive.  As far as the tires go - let's just say I feel more confident in the Maxxis Ramblers setup tubeless than the clements that came on it.

I've gotten the Ultegra R8000 setup on the Madone.  Now to install all of the 6800 goodies on the Roker.  I did go with the FD-R8000 on the Roker - the snap/snap action is really cool - and it was a relatively cheap upgrade.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #75 
I am really starting to like my Raleigh Roker Comp, It performed very well at the Dirty Pecan this weekend. I missed a couple of shifts but nothing to worry about. I weigh a tad over the 200 lbs. side right now. Being around other riders I was pulling away from guys on  the downhills that weighed more than me so that tells me it has a great freewheel on the rear. The stock tire set up to me seems fine but then I haven't a lot of tires to know what is good or bad because my old mt. bike had nasty tires on it and the rear was actually out of round and had a knot on the tire. I do have a question for you gear heads though. I have thoughts right now of doing the Bootlegger 100 next month in Lenoir NC. From what I have read it has some nasty climbing in it. So I want to get some lower gears and will be willing to sacrifice some on the top end for this. I have no clue what to get though. I am going to go look at the specs on my bike and repost.

I see the bike gearing specs are 11 x 42

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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