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woodardhsd

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I have a Raleigh Tamland 1 I bought last year.  I noticed the cassette appeared to be wobbling, but once I took it apart, I noticed it's the hub wobbling.  I contacted Raleigh since the bike is still under warranty and they said they would cover the cost to get it fixed with comparable parts.  I've done some looking at hubs and the prices are all over the place from $50 chinese no-name hubs to DT Swiss at nearly $500.  

What rear hub would be comparable?  There are no markings on the hub itself, the freehub says AEF, 11S compatible.  It's a 6-bolt disc hub, with a 12x142 thru-axle.  

If I could upgrade the hub what would you guys recommend?  It probably doesn't make much sense to upgrade the hub too much without addressing the entire wheelset, but i wasn't trying to spend $500 right now on new wheels.
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dangle

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Reply with quote  #2 
It's probably a better question for whatever local bike shop you're going to use for the job. I would also ask one for a second opinion. Hubs can be tightened. It may not need anything more than a quick overhaul. Typically a hub is a shell with some bearing stuffed into the ends, the cassette body added to one side, an axle running through it all and some threaded pieces on the very ends keeping everything together. If one of those threaded pieces gets loose, the entire hub will move around. Shifting sucks and you will hear the brake rotor make noise when turning or standing to pedal. I apologize if you have already determined that is not the case and the hub is truly beyond repair.


Still looking for a hub? Here's an answer from a stranger on the internet.

Comparable? Not much, since they are very cheap hubs already.

I think one way to go (that Raleigh would pay for) would be the Shimano 105 FH-R7070. It matches the 105 level stuff already on your bike, your local shop can get it (if it's in stock) and it's one of the few inexpensive rear hubs that's 12x142 thru axle, has the same 32 holes as your rim and will fit your 11 speed road cassette. The problem is that it's a centerlock rotor instead of the 6 bolt you already have. You will need a small adapter for about $15 to mount your current rotor on that Shimano hub. There's just no other thru axle hubs with an 11 speed freehub body coming to mind except Bitex and Novatec hubs. That's the only 11 speed road thru axle hub I see in Shimano's catalog and SRAM oesn't have one that I know of. Most local bike shops don't seem to think too much outside of those options unless you want to go high end.

Sure there's lot of 'cool' hubs out there like a DT Swiss 350 or Hope Pro, but that is probably bit beyond what they are offering you. It would also be a negligible performance upgrade when you consider your current rims and spokes are very heavy. Raleigh will already have to pay for the hub, probably new spokes (assuming different lengths) and then whatever labor for the build. The shop may even throw in some small labor costs for moving over the tire, rotor and cassette too. If you have tubeless tape in the rim, they will have to remove it and put new tape on the rim afterwards, which would add cost too. It's going to cost quite a bit of money to replace a low end hub with a mid range hub on what's already a budget wheelset. Make sure you and Raleigh agree on all of the costs before going any further. I would guesstimate this over $200 for parts and labor. That's a lot of lipstick on that pig.

Maybe there's a way they float you some of that money, you sell the front wheel and then buy a wheelset from Ole Ritter who has shown off some really nice builds for a great price here. Those will be at least a pound lighter, ride great and be very reliable too.

Whatever happens, I hope it happens quickly and you get back out on the road soon.
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woodardhsd

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Reply with quote  #3 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dangle
Still looking for a hub? Here's an answer from a stranger on the internet.


That's what I'm here for. I've added a couple videos below showing the wobble in the hub.  I think it's a manufacturing issue, now worn out bearings.  There is no play in the bearings at all.





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dangle

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Reply with quote  #4 
Is it the entire hub or just the freehub body wobbling? I couldn't really tell in that second video.
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woodardhsd

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Reply with quote  #5 
The entire hub.  I agree it is hard to tell from the video.  I can see the glare on the drive side hub flange move a bit, and the gap between the hub and the freehub body widens a bit as it goes around.

It's wobbling enough that the crank moves back and forth while the rear wheel is freewheeling, maybe a distance of 2mm.
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dangle

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Reply with quote  #6 
They were good quality videos! I do think you're right about it mostly likely being a manufacturing defect in the hub shell that allows for that extra movement. It was probably sloppy to begin with and some riding made it worse since it kept allowing a little more and a little more movement with each revolution. A bent axle seems impossible for a thru axle style bike.

If the hub is cup and cone/loose bearing, then there's some possibility of it being fixed. There's instances of loose, too few, or one too many bearings that could do something similar. Even on lower end, it seems rare to see non-cartridge bearing rear hubs outside of Shimano. I don't get to see much of that stuff, so I'm mostly guessing at that though. Somebody with more experience might be able to chime in.

Not knowing the actual hub or what's inside (like most OEM hubs) makes it mostly guesswork.
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woodardhsd

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Reply with quote  #7 
I pulled everything apart last night to take a look.  I was going to take the freehub off as well, but I didn't see a way to get it apart.  I was expecting to see a large hex somewhere but saw this instead.

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dangle

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Reply with quote  #8 
That looks like an older Suntour type design. I think it's covered in this Sheldon Brown article. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

That's beyond anything I have worked with, so it's still a big 'maybe' to me if a bike shop could fix the current hub. It's worth dropping in and asking. They have to have seen it before.
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Mark_Landsaat

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Reply with quote  #9 
I left Raleigh about two years ago, but I'm pretty sure from the pictures that what you're looking at is a Formula hub. You probably won't be able to find a direct replacement for that hub since they are mostly a supplier that makes OEM hubs that they sell to brands like Raleigh.

Just look for a 142x12 replacement rear hub with a Shimano/SRAM style freehub body and you should be in good shape.
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teoblar

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Reply with quote  #10 
If the rebuild costs are covered but the hub is on you, I would take a look at Bitex.  It may be one of those Chinese no-names that you mentioned, but Ole Ritter built me a wheelset with them and the engagement is really nice.  Good hum to the freewheeling, minimal drag.  I have been pleasantly surprised with them.  They are easily convertible to any axle format and you should be able to get it in a variety of colors for $50-$75.

I can't speak for the longevity just yet, the wheels are new, but Ole Ritter likes them and uses them a lot in his builds.
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woodardhsd

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Reply with quote  #11 
I've talked to oleritter and I'm going to sent him my rim out next week to get a new hub installed.  He suggested a Podium rear hub as a replacement.  Any reason to go with a Bitex over a Podium?

Raleigh is going to cover the entire cost or repair if I used a comparable part.  I didn't expect them to cover the cost of a high-end hub.
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teoblar

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Reply with quote  #12 
Sorry, I know nothing about Podium hubs, but I would trust Ole Ritter's advice on the matter.  Doesn't hurt to ask about the Bitex, though.
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woodardhsd

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Reply with quote  #13 
Problem fixed.

I was going to have just the hub replaced, but that didn't make much sense. I decided to upgrade to a whole new rear wheel. Oleritter, (Mill City Cycle) build me this slick replacement wheel.  H Plus Son The Hydra Rim, Bitex MTR10 Hub, Sapim Race spokes and nipples. 968 grams vs the stock 1162 grams, and everything spins perfectly true.

[Psyr3lX]
[hhCCOlr]
[PZ5MH2l]

Now I'm thinking about taking my old wheel apart, replacing the hub (same bitex hub as above) and trying to rebuild the wheel myself. Then I could have a spare wheelset sitting around in case I wanted to use one for road, and one for gravel.

I'm wondering what accounts for the large weight difference between the two wheels.  Supposedly the stock rim weighs 462g, just 22g more than the Hydra.  I wonder if it's all in the hub?
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woodardhsd

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Reply with quote  #14 
Now that I have a replacement, I decided to try to rebuild the old wheel myself.  I figure I'll get the wheel as close as I can to true and have a local shop true and tension it for me. 

I ordered a MTB270 rear hub, Sapim Race spokes, & nipples from bikehubstore.com.  I ordered the same length spokes as the old wheel had (292/290) as the new hub is almost exactly the same size as the old one.  Only difference was the flange-to-center measurements, and they were only .5mm different.  When the original wheel was built, they actually used 17 292mm spokes and 15 290mm ones.

Since I'm a huge nerd, I wanted to weigh everything and compare old to new.  I have everything written down at home, but the one thing that stands out is the old hub is 420g and the new one is 280g.  

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