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Chewie

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Reply with quote  #51 
I believe this is it. It's on the front wheel, inside the fork, opposite of the disc brake side.

raleigh-willard-3-wheel-spacer-2 (1).jpgraleigh-willard-3-wheel-spacer-2 (2).jpg

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RunNride

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Reply with quote  #52 
Thanks, Chewie that's the piece!!
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DFL

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Reply with quote  #53 
Ahhh, well so much for that. I have it in place. I’ve adjusted the brake several times so maybe it’s the wheel true. I’ll take it to my bike guy.

Thanks all!
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DFL

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Reply with quote  #54 
I had a mechanic verify that the quick release machanism in the thru-axle is defective, or broken. I filled out the request form on RaleighUSA and also called - they said they’d get back to me by Thursday.

Also, I ordered a Redshift Shockstop stem and a Cane Creek Thudbuster ST suspension seat post. Looking foward to getting them on there.

The Schwalbe G One Speeds in 38c went on today. They look sweet and I’ll try them out tomorrow.

Cheers and happy 4th!
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gleetrevino

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Reply with quote  #55 
I had the same issue with the hub spacer and the thru-axle, there really should be a sticker on there like the pedals to make sure this is avoided.  I was in a rush to put mine together so it's partly my fault but it's an easy miss.  They warrantied the axle but it did take some persistence on my part.  I also had a warranty issue on one of the tires as well, I had the tube blow on my first test ride, so I decided to get them set up tubeless.  One tire went on fairly smoothly and the other was not having it so I took the tire off to inspect it and the leading edge of the bead was separating.  I sent in some pictures and insisted this was a defective tire, they were trying to say that it was an extra piece of rubber from the manufacturing process, they replaced the tire as a courtesy with a nicer version of the same tire. I have since replaced the tires with Maxxis Ramblers which are tubeless ready as the Clement tires are not stated as tubeless ready, that point always makes me nervous.  Aside from these two issues, the bike is solid for the price point and I love riding it.  Please make sure that you go through the bike and tighten all the bolts to spec to ensure a safe ride.
The 54cm with Race Face Chester pedals comes in at 22.54 pounds.  I purchased mine from Aventuron for $915 and they currently have it for $890.  Carl at Aventuron was helpful with the warranty issues and was willing to fix the tire issues himself if they refused.
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gleetrevino

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Reply with quote  #56 
I forgot a couple of things, the chain was not tracking smoothly and I narrowed it down to the KMC 11 speed quick link.  It seems to be too tight of a fit and it was binding the rollers.  I replaced it with a 10-speed version and that solved the issue.  Anyone had issues with the rear thru-axle loosening during a ride?  I have had to tighten mine up before each ride, I know its a good idea to check the axles/QR before each ride but my mountain bike never has this problem.  The axle is clean and lightly lubed up.    
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DFL

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Reply with quote  #57 
Hey all, overall I'm really happy with the Willard 3. It turned out to be exactly what I wanted. With the Shockstop stem, the Thudbuster ST seat post, and the Schwalbe G One Speed tires it's like a Caddy!

HOWEVER! I have a weird problem. I cannot figure out what this noise is. I had the bottom bracket bearings replaced, and it got better, but it's still there.

Here's a video: https://youtu.be/hQUW6dU2wD0

Has anyone else had this???

IMG_1460.jpg

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Cerps

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Reply with quote  #58 
Seems to be in unison with pedal stroke.  Maybe cranks are too loose/too tight after you fixed bottom bracket, pedal loose or going bad, or chainring is loose on the crank.

I have a little creak when I really hammer on my pedals but haven't bothered to chase it down.  I did manage to snap 2 links on my factory chain in 190 miles of road riding.  I'm only 145 so it's not like I'm a big guy.  
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DFL

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Reply with quote  #59 
Pedals are new, lubed and tight. I guess I could have my mechanic check the  cranks and chainring again.

The strangest thing, and this has happened 3 rides in a row, is that it doesn't start until after about 5 miles. That makes no sense to me.

And before the new bearings it was LOUD, louder than it seems in that video. Loud enough that I don't want to ride it. It's hardly been ridden in the past month because of it.

It isn't a creak, but and oscillating sound, like a chain would make rubbing a guide on the front, if it had one...
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gleetrevino

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Reply with quote  #60 
Just spitballing.....Make sure cranks are tightened to specs with a torque wrench?  Try a light layer of grease on the seat post.  My rear thru axle was squeaking and I replaced it with Robert Axle Project TA.  My chain needed to be thoroughly degreased of the packing grease and the quick link was binding the chain so replaced with a 10-speed link I had handy and still using.  Try a different set of pedals to make sure those aren't the problem.  Good luck.
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gleetrevino

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Reply with quote  #61 
Does it make that sound when you are off the saddle and pedaling?

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DFL

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Reply with quote  #62 
Yes, and it doesn't matter how hard I'm cranking either. Hard or soft, same sound. Not the seat post, I went down that rabbit hole earlier this year with another bike. Definitely coming from the area of the cranks/BB/chainring..
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DFL

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Reply with quote  #63 
gleetrevino thanks for the suggestions. I'll report back when and if I can get it figured out...
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DFL

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Reply with quote  #64 
gleetrevino looks like you nailed it with the cranks. After all that, I think the left crank not being torqued correctly was the culprit! Why it would make the sound in the video, and only after 5 miles of riding, I have no idea.

Thanks for the suggestions, loving the bike 😉
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DFL

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Reply with quote  #65 
Well I was loving it until it started again.

So it's not the crank. Apparently it's the BB, and it's a know issue with Praxis.

No one else having issues with creaks and clicking?

This is what I've found: 

https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=135742&start=120

1. Uninstall everything.

2. Mineral spirits/degrease both BB alloy cup bores and Praxis sleeve

3. Apply Loctite 7649 activator to interfacing surfaces.

4. Apply Loctite 609

5. Torque Praxis shell until you hit the stop fully

6. Apply light coating of grease to crank spindle.

7. Install crank ensuring that there is sufficient preload to isolate the crank side to side by the wavewasher.

I'm not a mechanic and don't have the tools, so not sure what I'm going to do here...

It's driving me nuts!

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gleetrevino

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Reply with quote  #66 
That is a solid method, need to fill in those gaps where the tolerances may be a bit loose.  The tools are worth adding to your toolbox, I think you have to buy the Praxxis BB tool but its $20.  Some auto parts stores loan out tools, so if you don't have a torque wrench this might be the place to get one. Harbor Freight has some budget ones as well.    

Is the bike under warranty? If so try for a new BB and start fresh.
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DFL

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Reply with quote  #67 
I have basic tools but not many bike specialized tools. I do have a Park bike stand. I'm happy to buy the Praxis tool and try it myself, though I've never taken a BB apart before or put one together.

Is there anything else I need other than the BB tool and a torque wrench?

I'm ordering the two Loctite items from Amazon today.


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gleetrevino

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Reply with quote  #68 
That should be it, clockwise to remove on the drive side.  I think the praxxis has this info on the BB.  
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EASTSIDE

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Reply with quote  #69 
I've been enjoying the '17 willard I got. having fun putting miles on it. My only 2 gripes are the bars and the wheels. Man, these wheels are heavy. 4.12lbs front, 5.0lbs rear. thinking about an upgrade there. the bars mentioned by someone somewhere; they don't flatten out in the drops. 
I though about swapping over my mtn wheels but they aren't 700c height. 

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'17 Raleigh Willard 2
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gleetrevino

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Reply with quote  #70 
If you're using it as a true gravel/adventure bike then most riding would be done on the hoods, I find that a comfortable position but I'm more of an MTB rider.  No bike at this price point has amazingly light rims but I think it has a respectable overall weight considering the price.  I'm running tubeless but that might save me around 6-8 ounces. I did it more for flat protection.

Just weighted my front rim with a Maxxis Rambler TR EXO tire and it comes in at just over 3.5 lbs, set up tubeless.  I just saw that you had the Willard 2, I have the 3.  
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EASTSIDE

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Reply with quote  #71 
I have the gray model with sram 1x11 and trp spyre brakes. mostly same specs as the '18 3. 
would like to get the rotating/spinning wheel weight down to keep up with the roadies I ride with sometimes. tubeless is a start. not sure how the nova techs are as far as weight but I have a mtn wheel set I had built with hope pro4 hubs. could jack those and get some other wheels put together. can't seem to sell the wheel set for anything reasonable. 

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'17 Raleigh Willard 2
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gleetrevino

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Reply with quote  #72 
I doubt a lighter bike overall would help keep up with other riders if you don't have similar legs/fitness.  The biggest disadvantage that the 1X system for road riding is the lack of the tightly spaced gearing choices to dial in that perfect cadence.  The 1X is jumping 11-13-15-17-19 but a 2X Shimano 11 speed is 11-12-13-14-15-17.  If I could go back I would have purchased the Willard 4 with the Shimano 105 2X groupset, I feel when riding I'm missing that perfect gear choice.  40c tires might be a disadvantage in competing with a similar rider on more road specific tire.  This is why I bought the Willard in the first place, I was sick of riding my 1X full suspension with 2.4 tires on the local paved trail, it's like riding into a 20-mile headwind regardless of the weather.  
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