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AlanEsh

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Reply with quote  #51 
My Willard (same geometry and clearance ratings as Tamland) is running Surly Knard 41mm on wide 25mm (inside) rims with plenty of room for mud. I wouldn't go more than a couple of millimeters wider than that though, if mud is a consideration.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #52 
So I finally picked up my 2016 Tamland 1 tonight at my LBS. He is a full fledged Raleigh dealer and sells lots of bikes. If you haven't seen my posts before here is how my purchase went down. I saw a thread over at Bike Forums " Buying from Raleigh Corp. The bike sold last year for $1799 my Raleigh Dealer called and he was going to sell me the bike for $1300. I went there for fitting. He didn't have a Tamland in stock but had another Raleigh that he said was the same frame geometry. I am 6 ft. with long arms 34/35" sleeve length and the 56 cm fit me. I bought the bike from Raleigh for $799 + $48 tax and no shipping. I thought there was a small scratch on the ring or tube where the seat post slides in but can live with that for $500.

My 56 cm bike weighs 25.15 lb with a set of Shimano PD-M959 mountain bike pedals on it.

Here are some of my questions even though everyone is different and has personal tastes.

1. What tire pressure doe most people run. Do you run less in the front than rear. I guess it depends more if you are riding roads or gravel. Is there a happy medium? 
2. Do most people take the reflectors off the spokes on the wheels or leave them on for more visibility or safety. I was wondering whether that gives you more chances for sticks and the like to get stuck in between the wheels.
3. The same goes for the front or rear deflector is that something to again get in the way?
4. What is the advantage of the 11x32 over the 11x28. I guess it help you climb better. I will say I am a pretty good road climb but I have zilch mt. bike experience/single track or technical riding like rock gardens in my experience. What would or how would the 11x32 help me.

When I went out for a test ride tonight there was a clicking noise in the front end. He put 2 shims under the rotor and then used what looked like a tuning fork with a slit in to straighten the rotor out some.

Cost for set up
$75 Assembly
$20 Super Flash rear light
2 disk spacers $3 lol on this
$10 on the computer set up. This was pretty intense as I bought a Sigma BC 23.16 STS which isn't even sold  in the States yet so it came from a Sports shop in the Netherlands in 5 days and still only cost the same as my older Rox 8.1 which is now a discontinued model
$5 seat installation I took my race bike over which fits me like a glove and was a custom fit and he took measurements off that and set my bike up like that. Time will tell if a gravel grinder is a same set up.

Total with tax $119.78

OK with that with the savings I had on the bike and would rather pay a little bit upfront and have a safe riding bike than do something half ass at my end. It took him around 15 minutes to just set up the computer,

I only rode about 100 yards tonight and know that I don't like the seat. It's way too hard. I will be putting on a Brooks Imperial seat with a cut out on it.

I am off tomorrow and plan on taking the bike out on a shake down ride in the mts here locally. I have already signed up for  my 1st gravel ride around 3 weeks away in the Farmer's Daughter in Chatham NY. Wish me luck


Any help or suggestions will always be appreciated.
Thanks
Zman

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RoverAl

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Reply with quote  #53 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zman
 1. What tire pressure doe most people run. Do you run less in the front than rear. I guess it depends more if you are riding roads or gravel. Is there a happy medium? 
2. Do most people take the reflectors off the spokes on the wheels or leave them on for more visibility or safety. I was wondering whether that gives you more chances for sticks and the like to get stuck in between the wheels.
3. The same goes for the front or rear deflector is that something to again get in the way?
4. What is the advantage of the 11x32 over the 11x28. I guess it help you climb better. I will say I am a pretty good road climb but I have zilch mt. bike experience/single track or technical riding like rock gardens in my experience. What would or how would the 11x32 help me.


When I went out for a test ride tonight there was a clicking noise in the front end. He put 2 shims under the rotor and then used what looked like a tuning fork with a slit in to straighten the rotor out some.   


Hi Zman, 
I have a Raleigh Willard which is similar in geometry. I had my eye on a Tamland and am waiting for the new 2018 releases to see if they will update their forks with mounts for touring. Anyway about some of your questions I can relate to.

My brakes had that clicking sound in the front too when new. I contacted TRP and they told me to switch the calipers front to back and it fixed the noise. I have no idea why but it worked. Something to consider if it continues.

I like to try different tires out for fun and from my experience with tubeless is I will start with the middle psi rated on the tire as a baseline  RE: Tire rated at 50- 80 psi I will start with 65psi ~ then adjust based on my preferences. I rarely inflate to the full psi. I prefer the lower end of the PSI depending on the tire construction Sidewall beefiness etc. Sometimes I'll start out high and adjust in ride, I always carry a small pump with a gauge on rides. After awhile you become good at judging how much air you release with your finger on the presta for a second. I use same psi F&R but sometimes less in front depending on road. I go with how the ride feels to me. Everyone is different.
I went tubeless a couple years ago. 

The reflectors come off asap for me, they are just a piece of plastic waiting to litter the road and potentially cause flats for others. Also when in stealth mode they are a nuisance. I have lights and rely on them for safety.

My bike came with a 11-32 and I am glad it did, while I don't use it much it is nice to have when needed, mostly used off road,nasty headwinds,fatigue  etc... The only reason I would switch to a 28 is if I was doing group rides a lot. Sounds like you need some seat time on the bike and most of your concerns will start to fade away.

Your bike weighs 15.1? Is that ride weight? with wheels tires ready to hop on? cause that sounds pretty light to me.

P.S. I just put a Brooks B17 on my Willard and love it. Not fully broke in yet but I can ride in street clothes comfortably.
P.S.2 Not sure if you know this about the Tamland, our very own Guitar Ted co-owner of this board helped Raleigh with the design of the Tamland.
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AlanEsh

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Reply with quote  #54 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman

1. What tire pressure doe most people run. Do you run less in the front than rear. I guess it depends more if you are riding roads or gravel. Is there a happy medium? 
2. Do most people take the reflectors off the spokes on the wheels or leave them on for more visibility or safety. I was wondering whether that gives you more chances for sticks and the like to get stuck in between the wheels.
3. The same goes for the front or rear deflector is that something to again get in the way?
4. What is the advantage of the 11x32 over the 11x28. I guess it help you climb better. I will say I am a pretty good road climb but I have zilch mt. bike experience/single track or technical riding like rock gardens in my experience. What would or how would the 11x32 help me.

When I went out for a test ride tonight there was a clicking noise in the front end. He put 2 shims under the rotor and then used what looked like a tuning fork with a slit in to straighten the rotor out some.

I also have a Willard and thus similar experience.

- I have after-market wheels with wider rims and run 41mm Surly Knard tires (with tubes) at 42psi front and 45psi rear. I'll put 5 pounds more in them if I'm riding pavement. The large air volume and supple squish mute the vast majority of vibration and impacts.
- Dump the reflectors and put on a good set of lights. Reflectors only "light up" if headlights are shining on them, and it is safer to be more visible at all angles to traffic, night or day.
- Mine came with 11x28 and I switched it to 11x32 after one season, and I'm very glad I did. Iowa is flat, unless you're in the southern half on gravel roads, yikes.
- The TRP brakes have not impressed me at all; I'm considering replacing them with BB7s. They're loud, they seem to constantly need loosened and repositioned, and their stopping power is pretty meh.

Enjoy!
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #55 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverAl


Hi Zman, 
I have a Raleigh Willard which is similar in geometry. I had my eye on a Tamland and am waiting for the new 2018 releases to see if they will update their forks with mounts for touring. Anyway about some of your questions I can relate to.

My brakes had that clicking sound in the front too when new. I contacted TRP and they told me to switch the calipers front to back and it fixed the noise. I have no idea why but it worked. Something to consider if it continues.

I like to try different tires out for fun and from my experience with tubeless is I will start with the middle psi rated on the tire as a baseline  RE: Tire rated at 50- 80 psi I will start with 65psi ~ then adjust based on my preferences. I rarely inflate to the full psi. I prefer the lower end of the PSI depending on the tire construction Sidewall beefiness etc. Sometimes I'll start out high and adjust in ride, I always carry a small pump with a gauge on rides. After awhile you become good at judging how much air you release with your finger on the presta for a second. I use same psi F&R but sometimes less in front depending on road. I go with how the ride feels to me. Everyone is different.
I went tubeless a couple years ago. 

The reflectors come off asap for me, they are just a piece of plastic waiting to litter the road and potentially cause flats for others. Also when in stealth mode they are a nuisance. I have lights and rely on them for safety.

My bike came with a 11-32 and I am glad it did, while I don't use it much it is nice to have when needed, mostly used off road,nasty headwinds,fatigue  etc... The only reason I would switch to a 28 is if I was doing group rides a lot. Sounds like you need some seat time on the bike and most of your concerns will start to fade away.

Your bike weighs 15.1? Is that ride weight? with wheels tires ready to hop on? cause that sounds pretty light to me.

P.S. I just put a Brooks B17 on my Willard and love it. Not fully broke in yet but I can ride in street clothes comfortably.
P.S.2 Not sure if you know this about the Tamland, our very own Guitar Ted co-owner of this board helped Raleigh with the design of the Tamland.


Thanks for the info RoverlAl Yes I know Ted Guitar helped Raleigh with the design. I did tons of research on selecting my gravel riding bike all on Easter weekend and the other offer I had was a used Giant Anyroad for $600 and I feel I got the best deal out there for the money.   I am claiming Senior Moment on the weight of the bike or fat fingers. [biggrin] not sure which. The bike for 56 cm is listed as 24.5 lbs and guess that would be right as mine weighs 25.15 lbs with the Shimano mt. bike pedals. On the clicking noise I thought it was kind of funny that my local Raleigh dealer would charge me $3 to put some shims under the front rotor to fix it. I thought of calling Raleigh and asking them to reimburse me(not). I am not the techy guy so it was worth me taking it to him to set up(15 minutes +) my Sigma BC 23.16 STS computer. I have a older Brooks Waterford saddle that has some sag in it from taking on way too much rain that has to be way more comfortable than the hard rock stock seat.

I have to go to town and buy a 3.5 metric allen wrench to install the water bottle cages and then taking it for a spin in the mts. 



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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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shoota

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Reply with quote  #56 
Yep, my 2017 Tamland 1 weighed 24.5lbs out of the box. That'll be about two pounds lighter when my American Classic MTB Race wheels come in [smile]
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #57 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoota
Yep, my 2017 Tamland 1 weighed 24.5lbs out of the box. That'll be about two pounds lighter when my American Classic MTB Race wheels come in [smile]


So how much have your ridden your so far and did you or do you feel that you need to switch out to 11x32 cassette on the rear. This is my first double bike as I have always bought triples for those lettle mts. here in PA. [biggrin] I have 12x27 on my road bike now but probably going with 32 gearing later this summer(July 26th) when me and a few buds climb Pikes Peak on our bikes.

Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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shoota

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Reply with quote  #58 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


So how much have your ridden your so far and did you or do you feel that you need to switch out to 11x32 cassette on the rear. This is my first double bike as I have always bought triples for those lettle mts. here in PA. [biggrin] I have 12x27 on my road bike now but probably going with 32 gearing later this summer(July 26th) when me and a few buds climb Pikes Peak on our bikes.

Zman


Mine came with an 11-32 and yes I would suggest that. I haven't ridden mine a whole lot because I'm still living in the concrete jungle but I will be putting miles on it come June. My only experience with gravel riding gearing is the 12-26 on my CX bike and it's no where near low enough.

edit: The specs on Raleigh say the 2016 Tamland 1 should come with an 11-32, did yours not?
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #59 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoota


Mine came with an 11-32 and yes I would suggest that. I haven't ridden mine a whole lot because I'm still living in the concrete jungle but I will be putting miles on it come June. My only experience with gravel riding gearing is the 12-26 on my CX bike and it's no where near low enough.

edit: The specs on Raleigh say the 2016 Tamland 1 should come with an 11-32, did yours not?


Sometimes(all the time) I worry too much or do way too much research. So yes I see now that mine came with a 11 x32 [rolleyes] I have to find a spare tube somewhere yet today and then I am taking it for a photo shoot and then going to get it muddy. I couldn't live any farther away than the concrete jungle unless I lived in the hills of WV. I live in rural farm land here in Pa. and lots of Amish moved here from Lancaster County about 20 years ago taking over/buying the old generation farmers out so there is nor will there be any land development.

Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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shoota

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Reply with quote  #60 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


Sometimes(all the time) I worry too much or do way too much research. So yes I see now that mine came with a 11 x32 [rolleyes] I have to find a spare tube somewhere yet today and then I am taking it for a photo shoot and then going to get it muddy. I couldn't live any farther away than the concrete jungle unless I lived in the hills of WV. I live in rural farm land here in Pa. and lots of Amish moved here from Lancaster County about 20 years ago taking over/buying the old generation farmers out so there is nor will there be any land development.

Zman


Sounds nice. Good luck out there
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #61 
I was putting the carbon water bottle cages on my bike when the UPS Lady dropped off my Lezyne Alloy Drive mini pump from Performance bike. Talk about timing. [thumb]

Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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drwelby

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Reply with quote  #62 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman

1. What tire pressure doe most people run. Do you run less in the front than 
2. Do most people take the reflectors off the spokes on the wheels or leave them on for more visibility or safety. I was wondering whether that gives you more chances for sticks and the like to get stuck in between the wheels.
3. The same goes for the front or rear deflector is that something to again get in the way?



Yes, take them off. The wheel reflectors have a funny habit of getting just slightly loose and they'll vibrate and make a buzzy sound only at certain speeds and drive you crazy.

The frame reflectors are better than nothing - at least they attach with a real fastener. But they are something else to rattle off and you can replace them with some low-key reflective tape for the same effect with less weight and bother.


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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #63 
So I still haven't had a chance to go out and ride the Tamland very much to get it dialed in and use to riding it. Hate to say this but I still am trying to recover from a nasty bout of Shingles(6 weeks+ now) not a lot of fun and extremely painful. My first real test is the Pony Express 120 in Sept. 9th. I think I have enough time to get plenty of training in. I have limited weekends off so I don't know if I will be able to do a gravel ride/race before the Pony Express or not. I am some what curious though to how much a lighter wheel set would help me in a 120 mile ride/race compared to the maybe heavy set of stock wheels that are on my bike now. Is the gravel king sk 700 x 38 a good choice for the Kansas ride. I am hoping somebody that has done gravel racing(in Kansas) or experience with the Tamland or similar bike can give me some help and suggestions.

Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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shoota

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Reply with quote  #64 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman
So I still haven't had a chance to go out and ride the Tamland very much to get it dialed in and use to riding it. Hate to say this but I still am trying to recover from a nasty bout of Shingles(6 weeks+ now) not a lot of fun and extremely painful. My first real test is the Pony Express 120 in Sept. 9th. I think I have enough time to get plenty of training in. I have limited weekends off so I don't know if I will be able to do a gravel ride/race before the Pony Express or not. I am some what curious though to how much a lighter wheel set would help me in a 120 mile ride/race compared to the maybe heavy set of stock wheels that are on my bike now. Is the gravel king sk 700 x 38 a good choice for the Kansas ride. I am hoping somebody that has done gravel racing(in Kansas) or experience with the Tamland or similar bike can give me some help and suggestions.

Thanks
Zman


There is no substitute for fitness. Period. Keep your stock wheels on, ride as much as you can, and that's really the best you can do. Kansas isn't mountainous so your fitness and tire selection will be way more important. The GK in 38 would be an excellent choice in tire.
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AlanEsh

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Reply with quote  #65 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman
So I still haven't had a chance to go out and ride the Tamland very much to get it dialed in and use to riding it. Hate to say this but I still am trying to recover from a nasty bout of Shingles(6 weeks+ now) not a lot of fun and extremely painful. My first real test is the Pony Express 120 in Sept. 9th. I think I have enough time to get plenty of training in. I have limited weekends off so I don't know if I will be able to do a gravel ride/race before the Pony Express or not. I am some what curious though to how much a lighter wheel set would help me in a 120 mile ride/race compared to the maybe heavy set of stock wheels that are on my bike now. Is the gravel king sk 700 x 38 a good choice for the Kansas ride. I am hoping somebody that has done gravel racing(in Kansas) or experience with the Tamland or similar bike can give me some help and suggestions.

Thanks
Zman

Are those stock rims tubeless ready? The rims that came on my Willard were not. I don't know if you are interested in going tubeless, but if so that'd be the biggest reason to get another set of wheels. I had wheels built for my Willard, went with WTB KOM i25 mountain bike rims and put 41mm tires on them. My objective was to get a nice wide tire at the bead so the sidewalls would be more vertical, and so air volume would be maximized. I don't know if I saved any weight, but the ride is immensely better than stock. When I take that bike on hard surface rides I no longer switch to my "road wheels" which are the original rims with 35mm clements; they're not as comfortable and don't feel any faster.
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shoota

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Reply with quote  #66 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanEsh

Are those stock rims tubeless ready? The rims that came on my Willard were not. I don't know if you are interested in going tubeless, but if so that'd be the biggest reason to get another set of wheels. I had wheels built for my Willard, went with WTB KOM i25 mountain bike rims and put 41mm tires on them. My objective was to get a nice wide tire at the bead so the sidewalls would be more vertical, and so air volume would be maximized. I don't know if I saved any weight, but the ride is immensely better than stock. When I take that bike on hard surface rides I no longer switch to my "road wheels" which are the original rims with 35mm clements; they're not as comfortable and don't feel any faster.


Yes the stock rims are tubeless ready (pre-taped), even though Raleigh doesn't provide tubeless valves (grr). And I agree, going tubeless is without question the best way to roll.
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RoverAl

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Reply with quote  #67 
I saw a gorgeous picture of a 2017 Tamland 2 today and put one in the shopping cart but chickened out at the last second.

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shoota

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Reply with quote  #68 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverAl
I saw a gorgeous picture of a 2017 Tamland 2 today and put one in the shopping cart but chickened out at the last second.



Where did you see the picture? And how much was it?
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #69 
I really love the way my wheels roll. My Tamland is so much better than the junk Schwinn(grade above Wally world bike) that it doesn't take a lot to impress me. If I am going to get a new wheel set it is to save weight because I probably am going to do as many of the ultra gravel races that are out there. That is just the way I roll. Right now I am at 200 lbs. and hope to get down to 185 lbs. but it is going to take some hard work. Having the Shingles for 6 weeks+ right now hasn't helped. As much as I would love to get out on my gravel bike I have a date with Pikes Peak July 26th with some friends so I need to get use to my race bike as I had some lower gears put on it and have to get use to a new climbing bike all over. I would still take some input on lighter wheels probably 28 spokes rear and 26 in the front not 24 and d lights spokes. I am thinking DT 350 hubs as long as they are quick release and disk ready. What rim I want to use I have no clue. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I probably am not doing anything until winter and will at least or should have one ride/race under my belt The Pony Express 120 by then.



Thanks
Zman

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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #70 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoota


Where did you see the picture? And how much was it?


raleighusa.com

price is

$1999.99

Don't u love round figures. They are messing with you mind and you are saying well at least the bike isn't $2000.00 [rolleyes]

Zman

Well maybe he likes robin egg blue for a color. At my end I will say the price sold me but since the bike wasn't butt ugly I decided to buy the bike.I see lots of pics of gravel bikes posted that I probably wouldn't have bought. Coming from the roadie end the brighter/louder the better but from what I have seen gravel bikes seem to be Plain Jane and on the boring side.

Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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shoota

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Reply with quote  #71 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


raleighusa.com

price is

$1999.99

Don't u love round figures. They are messing with you mind and you are saying well at least the bike isn't $2000.00 :rollseyess:

Zman




I doubt that's the picture he saw. I wouldn't call a stock photo 'gorgeous' anyway.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #72 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoota


There is no substitute for fitness. Period. Keep your stock wheels on, ride as much as you can, and that's really the best you can do. Kansas isn't mountainous so your fitness and tire selection will be way more important. The GK in 38 would be an excellent choice in tire.


Thanks for this post you know us Americans we want it and we want it now. lol If I can just shake this Shingles thingy when I get back from Colorado I have an entire month to try and get ready for that ride and am getting people to give me some gravel roads suggestions in my area that I didn't know existed since I am/was a roadie.

Thanks again
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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RoverAl

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Reply with quote  #73 
Here it is , I dunno if it's the color or what but I like it, got it off of reddit. Oh and raleigh usa corp price 1299 The T2 is maybe 2lbs ligher than theT1. The color is Richard Petty blue in my eyes and same as the knoa rove frame I wanted to build up awhile back. I'm trying to think what Raleigh might do for 2018 with this if anything. 
For Speculation purposes only lets say they go hydraulic brakes, flat mounts, and add fork mounts? Cockpit, drivetrain, wheels are all price point objectives. I don't know what they would add. Cable routing is already internal, along with the thru axles. What do you guys think would be new for 18? Road plus??? 

https://i.redd.it/qm9jp4mi5aiy.jpg

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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #74 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverAl
Here it is , I dunno if it's the color or what but I like it, got it off of reddit. Oh and raleigh usa corp price 1299 

https://i.redd.it/qm9jp4mi5aiy.jpg



I have to agree with shoota that is a much nicer photo than the stock Raleigh photo. 1299 is sweet price for it what is the difference between the Tamland 1 and the Tamland 11?

Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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shoota

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Reply with quote  #75 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverAl
Here it is , I dunno if it's the color or what but I like it, got it off of reddit. Oh and raleigh usa corp price 1299 The T2 is maybe 2lbs ligher than the one 

https://i.redd.it/qm9jp4mi5aiy.jpg



Yep, nice photo. Just be aware those Clement MSOs aren't specifically tubeless ready (none of the 40mm versions are TR). And there are 36mm MSOs that aren't TR either. Like the ones that came on my wife's Jamis Renegade. They appear to be a cheap, crappy OEM only version. Really ticked me off. Every Clement TR tire has a white label on the tire stating so.
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