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LewisQC

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Reply with quote  #26 
Quote:
Originally Posted by radouf
Thanks for the tip, I'll certainly look into lowering my average psi.

Actually, I realize that this pressure (55psi) I determined was the best all-arounder pressure on my previous bike, before I switched to this Private Jake this summer and also upgraded wheels. Said bike was an old school CX with very narrow rims (14mm internal, if i recall well) so with the Overide 35s on, I couldn't really go soft or I would feel the overly squeezed-at-the-bead tire wobble on cornering. Scary stuff!

It only makes sense that I update now, cheers for pointing it out!

This being said, @LewisQC, any chance you will show up at the Audax Endurance Ride in the Laurentians in october? 


Looks like a great event!  I'm off from work for a week at that moment but might be on a windsurfing trip... I'm not in good riding shape at the moment... I wanted to ride les 100 à B7 this year and Paris Ancaster but it didn't materialized due to surgery, busy summer at work and family vacation outside of the country. I'll try to do at least one event next year
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LewisQC

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Reply with quote  #27 
Quote:
Originally Posted by radouf



- Lastly the hub sound. Its really just a matter of personal preference, but i was expecting / hoping for a more positive sound, à la Campi or Fulcrum. So far it’s been very hush-y. I think i noticed that the volume has been slowly increasing (as the wheels’ baby grease slowly gives way?), but it’s still a very quiet hub. Mostly an FYI.


I tend to prefere quieter hub even if it's not my first criteria. If you want more noise, I did the 56t star ratchet upgrade on my fat bike wheelset. I don't know if yours is 18 or 36, but going from 18t to 54t it did sound louder and higher pitch (I have videos on my cell but can't post them). I did this change to get more point of engagement which is not really a factor on road/gravel onless you're doing single track... It will cost around 100us$ and it's an 10 minutes job with youtube as a guide
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Koyote

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Reply with quote  #28 
Back when I was road racing, I preferred my quiet Shimano hubs, as they allowed me to sneak onto someone's wheel without tipping them off right away.
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pushstart

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Reply with quote  #29 
+1 for the Light Bicycle RR36CO2 rim mentioned above. These are really nice & quite inexpensive; it's what I'm using for my off-road wheelset (when I swap out my commuter for a gravel race or just want to take the woods on the way home from work).  LB rims are really nice rims.  They cost a little more than other mainland manufacturers (e.g. Yishun), but in my experience you're also getting a better product.  Consistent weights, consistent ERD, deep spoke beds (I think 4mm!), easy tubeless setup.  The set pictured here is the hookless model, which is a little wider inside (around 22mm) and obviously great for gravel tires.  I've also got another set of these rims on order, but with bead hook, for my commuter wheelset where I'm using Compass tires that are too loose for me to trust them on hookless rims.

I built this wheelset up with Novatec D791SB/D792SB hubs (to which I swapped in Enduro bearings) to keep the budget a bit lower.  The rims cost around $400 shipped to the USA, so with $150 hubset and ~$70 for Laser spokes & brass nipples you could keep the build under $700 easily.  Or go fancy w/ Hope Pro 4 hubs for around $800-850 (which will be my everyday wheelset).  This specific wheelset uses CX Ray spokes, but only because I had half of the spokes available in the right lengths from previous projects; I wouldn't waste my money on CX Ray normally.

IMG_20180315_072443078.jpg

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oleritter

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Reply with quote  #30 
IMG_20180827_093409570.jpg  IMG_20180827_093652284.jpg  IMG_20180827_093751619.jpg  IMG_20180827_093758573.jpg We've been building a lot of LB wheels lately.

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Grf

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Reply with quote  #31 
Quote:
Originally Posted by radouf
Hey guys! The last 48h were quite the roller coaster: i received the wheels from Merlin Cycles UK, well packaged and all except... they didn’t include the 15 thru-axle endcaps (which i need)! First wtf moment, as its very clearly stated on DT Swiss that they come with the wheels. Their customer service hadn’t much to say about it, so i ended up sourcing them locally ($$).


Hey, I signed up to the forums just to relay my experience buying the ER 1600 32 from Merlin. I had the same experience of a WTF moment and emailed very politely to point out no end caps were included. Until then my experience had been great. I'd also purchased a Kinesis Tripster AT frame and other bits for a new build.

I knew what to expect from DT Swiss as I already had a set of the original R32 Spline DB wheels (polished silver hubs, not the new ones), which are still going great. Extremely tight, spin well, handle my super clyde weight/power.

Anyway, through emails they informed me that the ER 32 1600 were a special OEM buy and there were no end caps. They were probably still a good buy for the price but I was pretty annoyed that this was not made clear in the listing. It is why they don't come in a DT Swiss box too. They've since updated the listing to indicate that end caps are not included.

I lodged a PayPal dispute for $80 to cover the cost of end caps and that was paid back.

So what I have noticed is that they are no where near as tight as my existing R32 Spline DB wheels. The ER 1600 32 were pinging all over the shop with lots of flex and spoke rub on the non-drive side in rear and non-braking side front. I'm planning to use the R32 Splines for a Spesh Roubaix I'm building and the ER 1600 for the commuter Tripster AT.
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67DGS

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Reply with quote  #32 
Thanks Grf

I am having the same issue with Merlin over these wheels. Their response to my concerns was pretty terse and they told me to get the adapter at my own expense. Not too happy with their customer service. Have bought a lot of stuff from them in the past, but after this probably won’t deal with them again. Did not think of trying PayPal resolution though. Will try that and hopefully it’ll be resolved.

Cheers

Jack
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oleritter

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Reply with quote  #33 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67DGS
Thanks Grf

I am having the same issue with Merlin over these wheels. Their response to my concerns was pretty terse and they told me to get the adapter at my own expense. Not too happy with their customer service. Have bought a lot of stuff from them in the past, but after this probably won’t deal with them again. Did not think of trying PayPal resolution though. Will try that and hopefully it’ll be resolved.

Cheers

Jack


Sheesh and Sheesh!  Merlin made a mistake in their details, but y'all still got a killer deal on the wheels.  And you bought the caps from the wrong place if you paid $80.  

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Grf

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Reply with quote  #34 
Quote:
Originally Posted by oleritter


Sheesh and Sheesh!  Merlin made a mistake in their details, but y'all still got a killer deal on the wheels.  And you bought the caps from the wrong place if you paid $80.  


That's a generous interpretation. There is still no indication that they are not actually 'factory' DT Swiss wheels but an 'OEM bargain'.

The sickening moment I had was not 'oh where are the two sets of endcaps I am meant to receive with DT Swiss wheels' but 'oh I've been swindled and these are not a proper wheelset but possibly even second hand with an uncertain history'.

If the product is not 100% brand new as per DT Swiss specs with all inclusions then this should be disclosed. There was no indication that they were anything other than 100% brand new per DT Swisss specs. Anything else erodes the trust that online buyers necessarily need to have in online vendors. 
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radouf

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Reply with quote  #35 
Quick heads up that may be useful to the other gravelites who went ahead and bought a pair of those ER1600-32. Maybe 10-12 weeks into riding them, performance is still smooth and strong, yet subtle creaks and rubbing noises have started appearing a bunch.

With a local bike shop we've found that it was the spokes and specifically the mat coating rubbing that seemed to accentuate the noise pretty significantly. So we gave them some extra torque, dropped some lubricant at the spokes crossing, and for those that even then just wouldn't shut up, we slid tiny rubber shims between them.

Wheels / bike is now ultrasilent. I mean, even more than out of the box silent.
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Grf

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Reply with quote  #36 
Quote:
Originally Posted by radouf
we slid tiny rubber shims between them.

Wheels / bike is now ultrasilent. I mean, even more than out of the box silent.

Can you give some more detail about the shims please. Is the rubber glued?

I've tensioned mine up which seems to have made a difference.
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oleritter

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Reply with quote  #37 
Quote:
Originally Posted by radouf
Quick heads up that may be useful to the other gravelites who went ahead and bought a pair of those ER1600-32. Maybe 10-12 weeks into riding them, performance is still smooth and strong, yet subtle creaks and rubbing noises have started appearing a bunch.

With a local bike shop we've found that it was the spokes and specifically the mat coating rubbing that seemed to accentuate the noise pretty significantly. So we gave them some extra torque, dropped some lubricant at the spokes crossing, and for those that even then just wouldn't shut up, we slid tiny rubber shims between them.

Wheels / bike is now ultrasilent. I mean, even more than out of the box silent.


zoiks, Scooby!


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Koyote

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Reply with quote  #38 
Quote:
Originally Posted by oleritter


zoiks, Scooby!



I’m no expert on wheel building, but I would be very concerned about those noises. I’d be very skeptical that a few rubber shims would help. In fact, with well-built wheels, I would think that adding such things would be harmful.
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radouf

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Reply with quote  #39 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grf

Can you give some more detail about the shims please. Is the rubber glued?

I've tensioned mine up which seems to have made a difference.
More details: don't look too far. Mechanic basically just cut a bit of some tube he had laying around, pulled it in at the spokes crossing, and then cut to shape so they're basically invisible if you're not looking for them.

@Koyote: Regarding concerns, mechanic established it was the spokes coating, rubbing against each other's when flexing, that was squeaky. Tension looks good, heads too. What should be concerning about that?
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Koyote

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Reply with quote  #40 
Again, I'm not a wheel expert. But they shouldn't make noise. Most wheelbuilds have crossed spokes (1x, 2x, 3x), and so spokes are basically designed to be laced against (or over) one another. And of all the wheels I've owned, none made any such noises. I would be concerned about wheels that do make noise. But hopefully I am wrong!
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chas

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Reply with quote  #41 
Well ya know, back in the day, they used to weld the spokes together where they touched...
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