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ti473

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Reply with quote  #751 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zilcho
Finally starting assembly and some of the smaller details are starting to show themselves:
- At the top of the seat tube where there are cuts to allow for compression, some of the carbon wasn't cleaned out and needs to be filed down or will just slice along the seat post.  
- The dropouts for the rear axle seem to be just slightly out of line, it takes a bit of convincing to get the thru axle in place.  Also, is the drive-side threaded bolt supposed to be that loose in the hanger? I know it needs tightened with the tiny screw but just seems like a poor design...first time with thru axle so maybe I just hadn't seen it done before.
- The lower headset bearing does not slide in to place like other frames I've used, may do some sanding here.  I'm assuming its not meant to be a press in bearing?
edit:
- The upper headset bearing drops in just fine but sticks out a bit and the top cap doesn't want to sit flush on the frame...thoughts?

I still think the bike will be great once built, just some details I've not seen when working on big brand frames.


I've had similar issues on my chinese frame.
The lower headset cup did require some light sanding to fit in the bearing, I'm guessing this was due to paint overspray.
The dropouts were also slightly out of alignment so the axle took a little convincing to slide in. Not terribly tough though so it wasn't really an issue.
The through axle and dropouts themselves are piss poor design in my opinion. From what you are describing it sounds like you have the same issue I had... Do you have a nut (well more like a threaded collar) with a 16mm OD that fits into a 19.5mm ID dropout hole? If that's the case the set screw is completely pointless as it would not hold the collar/nut in place once you take the axle out.
I ordered this Shimano axle nut, and although I haven't put a set screw in yet (frame didn't come with), it looks like it would work fine as the nut fits tightly into the dropout.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Fixing-Nut-for-12mm-Thru-Axle/182658633160?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


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ashOfIce

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Reply with quote  #752 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zilcho
Finally starting assembly and some of the smaller details are starting to show themselves:
- At the top of the seat tube where there are cuts to allow for compression, some of the carbon wasn't cleaned out and needs to be filed down or will just slice along the seat post.  
- The dropouts for the rear axle seem to be just slightly out of line, it takes a bit of convincing to get the thru axle in place.  Also, is the drive-side threaded bolt supposed to be that loose in the hanger? I know it needs tightened with the tiny screw but just seems like a poor design...first time with thru axle so maybe I just hadn't seen it done before.
- The lower headset bearing does not slide in to place like other frames I've used, may do some sanding here.  I'm assuming its not meant to be a press in bearing?
edit:
- The upper headset bearing drops in just fine but sticks out a bit and the top cap doesn't want to sit flush on the frame...thoughts?

I still think the bike will be great once built, just some details I've not seen when working on big brand frames.


I had the same tolerance issues with lower headtube and fork crown. Light sanding and everything fitted nicely.
I had none of the other issues.
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carkeys

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Reply with quote  #753 
I just got an update the other day from Hedy that my build is finally done. I put in the order on Feb 5th but because of the Chinese new year they couldn't start on it until March.

carbonda.dark.grey.jpg 

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baart

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Reply with quote  #754 
Hello Guys,

I'm looking to build a super commuter. The Carbonda gravel build seems like a fun project. 

I've put together a rough part list:

Frame BSA 396
Custom paint 60
Postage 145
Wheelset Hunt 563
Shimano 105 5800 Disc Brake Groupset 578
Selle smp composit 169
Handlebar 100
Eggbeater pedals 90
Handlebar tape 10
Stem 40
GP4000 + inner tubes 70
   
   
Total moneyz down the drain 2221


I'm not unfamiliar with working on bikes but have not started a build from scratch yet. Does this seem like a good place to start? I'm not too concerned with weight as of yet. It's build more like a road bike because that's what it will be used for for 90% of the time at the moment. Prices are in Euro btw. 2200 seems about the top I would go but I have time so can shop around for parts. 

Thanks for the advice.

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Jorgen

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Reply with quote  #755 
If you have some experience working on bikes you will be fine. I see you want the BSA bottom bracket, that makes it easier as you don’t need the pressfit tool.. A few people on here have had a few challenges with e.g. head set bearing that doesn’t slide in place. My frame gave me no trouble, it’s probably down to manufacturing tolerances that can be fixed with a bit of careful sanding.
Go for it and enjoy having a unique bike
Regards
Jorgen
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Rob123

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Reply with quote  #756 
Hi all, I've been watching this thread for a while and finally ordered my frame. Just wondering what are the largest 650b tyres people have managed to fit? 
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jjbnum3

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Reply with quote  #757 

Almost every bike forum I visit has A Chinese Carbon build thread.

What is the ballpark price for some of these frame/fork deals?

I have bought Chinese CF seat posts and few other bike items from China.
Still testing.
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agjell

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Reply with quote  #758 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjbnum3

Almost every bike forum I visit has A Chinese Carbon build thread.

What is the ballpark price for some of these frame/fork deals?

I have bought Chinese CF seat posts and few other bike items from China.
Still testing.

I just ordered the Carbonda CFR505 and I payed USD 490 for the frame, USD 65 for a custom paint job and USD 95 for shipping to Norway. You can find frames from about USD 200, but I cannot attest to their quality. I suppose you get what you pay for. I made my choice based on the reviews from this thread. Hedy at Carbonda was very easy to communicate with, she wrote surprisingly good English. And she quoted delivery within 14 business days even with painting. Whether that will happen remains to be seen. Cannot wait to start my build!
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jjbnum3

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Reply with quote  #759 
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjell

I just ordered the Carbonda CFR505 and I payed USD 490 for the frame, USD 65 for a custom paint job and USD 95 for shipping to Norway. You can find frames from about USD 200, but I cannot attest to their quality. I suppose you get what you pay for. I made my choice based on the reviews from this thread. Hedy at Carbonda was very easy to communicate with, she wrote surprisingly good English. And she quoted delivery within 14 business days even with painting. Whether that will happen remains to be seen. Cannot wait to start my build!


I'll look at these companies or sellers maybe over this weekend.Right now I'm not in A market for another new bike.

I was kind of interested because on another bike forum someone posted looking for A light $500 road bike,now  up to $700.


Someone posted they built up two road bikes that are both 16 pounds and cost $565

-Carbon frame, minimal usage Schwinn something -$200 (20% off eBay coupon) $160
-groupset 4700 tiagra $200 on eBay
-wheelset $80 a new bike takeoff 
-generic carbon drop bars $25
-generic stem $15
-generic Seatpost $15
-vittoria tires/tubes $50
-tape and cable housings $15 (eBay)

Someone ask for pictures,and they said they are still waiting on some parts.lol
I just think that is going to low and extreme for A bike build.Not something I would 
want to ride downhill at my age.I'm not sure if i would ever do A Chinese gravel build.
One: I have too many bikes right now to ride and build.
Two: Some good deals in the states if you just wait.
Just not on gravel.But I also ride everything from single speed to MT. bike.

And thanks for the feedback and welcome to RG fourms.
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Janezek

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Reply with quote  #760 
Hey guys, does anyone have the FSA BB386 to BB86 bottom bracket? How freely do the cranks turn? Mine are not smooth at all, installed in the Carbonda gravel frame.

I have mounted this bracket but it was very hard to press in. Perhaps I should have stopped when it was getting harder and harder, but at the same time I was thinking that now its too late and I wont be able to remove it without damaging it.

It is pressed in straight, however when you look through inside it looks a bit wonky, as I hope is visible on the photo. 

Also I was pressing both cups at the same time, as my press tool did not seem to get a good seat on the shell on the side without the bb.


Then I installed the FSA SL-K Modular Adventure crankset, and it's not at all spinning as freely as it should.

Any advice? 

Attached Images
jpeg IMG_20180323_191827_HDR.jpg (4.01 MB, 28 views)

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Janezek

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Reply with quote  #761 
Sorry for the double post, but I've figured it out.
Apparently it's not an issue if cranks don't spin as freely as one would expect, mostly because of tighter bearing seals in some of these newer BB designs. It should not have a noticable effect on efficiency, however it should still get smoother with time.
Otherwise I'm very pleased with my build and I'll post some pics when it's finished.
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bagly

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Reply with quote  #762 
Hi there!

Thank you very much for the helpful infos and feedback on this thread.

My build so far looks like this:
It has 650b Hunt alloy rims built with DtSwiss240s rear and Son deluxe upfront both 28h with SapimCXRays with Gravelking SK 48mm tubeless on them. Didn't get the proprietary Carbonda headset,axles nor seatpost. Went for lighter stuff from Extralite BlackLock axles (with a Shimano axle nut in the rear), they've just released 125mm axles suitable for this frame. Also got the superlight Extralite Hyperstem from them. The handlebar is a 3T Aeronova. Seatpost canyon vcls with Specialized Power Arc saddle.

What has to come yet:
It'll have Force CX1 grouppo with 42 and 38t chainrings, dyno lights mounted front and rear (Sinewave Beacon with integrated USB charger mounted upside down on the gropromount of the Rotor Garmin mount and Supernova on the rear mounted on the seatpost).

I'll use this rig in the summer at the Silk Road Mountain Race. Hopefully it'll take me safely straight to the finishline.

I'll post pics with the full build in late April.

Attached Images
jpeg received_1704828319563663.jpeg (1.11 MB, 128 views)
jpeg received_1704828162897012.jpeg (1.28 MB, 128 views)

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Rainysunny

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Posts: 58
Reply with quote  #763 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagly
Hi there!

Thank you very much for the helpful infos and feedback on this thread.

My build so far looks like this:
It has 650b Hunt alloy rims built with DtSwiss240s rear and Son deluxe upfront both 28h with SapimCXRays with Gravelking SK 48mm tubeless on them. Didn't get the proprietary Carbonda headset,axles nor seatpost. Went for lighter stuff from Extralite BlackLock axles (with a Shimano axle nut in the rear), they've just released 125mm axles suitable for this frame. Also got the superlight Extralite Hyperstem from them. The handlebar is a 3T Aeronova. Seatpost canyon vcls with Specialized Power Arc saddle.

What has to come yet:
It'll have Force CX1 grouppo with 42 and 38t chainrings, dyno lights mounted front and rear (Sinewave Beacon with integrated USB charger mounted upside down on the gropromount of the Rotor Garmin mount and Supernova on the rear mounted on the seatpost).

I'll use this rig in the summer at the Silk Road Mountain Race. Hopefully it'll take me safely straight to the finishline.

I'll post pics with the full build in late April.


Nice build, looks like the frame is the cheapest part! Were the front fork mounts specified? I was going to ask for this but just wasn’t sure about loading an untested from.
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agjell

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Reply with quote  #764 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagly
...Went for lighter stuff from Extralite BlackLock axles (with a Shimano axle nut in the rear), they've just released 125mm axles suitable for this frame.

Nice setup! I also went for Hunt wheels, although 700C. They seem like a lot of bang for buck! Sorry if these are very basic questions, but I'm new to thru-axles and disc brakes. I'm guessing from this that you are using the BlackLock 12.5 B in the front. Are there threads in the fork or do you need a nut there? If so; what kind? Also, which axle are you using for the rear; 172 or 178?
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bagly

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Reply with quote  #765 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainysunny


Nice build, looks like the frame is the cheapest part! Were the front fork mounts specified? I was going to ask for this but just wasn’t sure about loading an untested from.


I'm using the fender mount bolts on the bottom of the fork with additional SKS anywhere straps. Seem like they are firm but will load them with only 1kg on each side.
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bagly

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Reply with quote  #766 
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjell

Nice setup! I also went for Hunt wheels, although 700C. They seem like a lot of bang for buck! Sorry if these are very basic questions, but I'm new to thru-axles and disc brakes. I'm guessing from this that you are using the BlackLock 12.5 B in the front. Are there threads in the fork or do you need a nut there? If so; what kind? Also, which axle are you using for the rear; 172 or 178?


Hi, the fork has thread in it. Only the rear axle needs a nut. Went with the 12.5B in the front and with the BlackLock 12.1 in the rear, the 172mm version.
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Rainysunny

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Reply with quote  #767 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagly


I'm using the fender mount bolts on the bottom of the fork with additional SKS anywhere straps. Seem like they are firm but will load them with only 1kg on each side.


Thank you. Please keep us updated on how that holds up, interested in doing something similar myself if 1-2 kg +rack works out for you.
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agjell

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Reply with quote  #768 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagly
Hi, the fork has thread in it. Only the rear axle needs a nut. Went with the 12.5B in the front and with the BlackLock 12.1 in the rear, the 172mm version.

Thank you! Will 120 mm in the front be way too short, or can it work?
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bagly

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Reply with quote  #769 
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjell

Thank you! Will 120 mm in the front be way too short, or can it work?


I have messaged Extralite in mid-december and they told me that the 120mm is too short and also told me to wait up till mid-february till they have right axle (12.5b) availaible. And that's what I did.

Btw i have this frame since early december si I think it's the slowest build time in here also. It will be ready in late April. :))
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agjell

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Reply with quote  #770 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagly
I have messaged Extralite in mid-december and they told me that the 120mm is too short and also told me to wait up till mid-february till they have right axle (12.5b) availaible. And that's what I did. Btw i have this frame since early december si I think it's the slowest build time in here also. It will be ready in late April. 😉)

Ok, thanks! Too bad, as there are so many 120 axles to choose from, and almost no 125's 😃 I may just be done building before you, depending on when I get all the parts. Will post when I'm done.
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Rondigs

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Reply with quote  #771 
I’ve spent sometime reading all of this thread and I think I’ve been inspired! Currently, I ride a Focus Cayo 3.0 disc road bike:
https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Focus/Cayo-30-Disc-Road-Bike-2015/51YH

My plan is to canabilize the focus and use it to build the CFR505. The focus is a size small: 51cm with an effective top tube 537. I’m 5’9, inseam 31in and arm length is 25.75in. However, my mountain bike is a epic 29er medium. Web based fit guides recommend top tube of 545-549. The focus is really comfortable for me, but I’m second guessing on what size I should get in the cfr505. Any help/recommendation is greatly appreciated.

Lastly, the focus is built with a PF30 bottom bracket. What will I need to ensure the Ultegra 6800 crankset swaps over?

Thanks everyone, looking forward to spending more time off the beaten path!
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agjell

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Reply with quote  #772 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rondigs
I’ve spent sometime reading all of this thread and I think I’ve been inspired! Currently, I ride a Focus Cayo 3.0 disc road bike: https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Focus/Cayo-30-Disc-Road-Bike-2015/51YH My plan is to canabilize the focus and use it to build the CFR505. The focus is a size small: 51cm with an effective top tube 537. I’m 5’9, inseam 31in and arm length is 25.75in. However, my mountain bike is a epic 29er medium. Web based fit guides recommend top tube of 545-549. The focus is really comfortable for me, but I’m second guessing on what size I should get in the cfr505. Any help/recommendation is greatly appreciated. Lastly, the focus is built with a PF30 bottom bracket. What will I need to ensure the Ultegra 6800 crankset swaps over? Thanks everyone, looking forward to spending more time off the beaten path!

I'm 175 cm (5'9) with 83 cm (32.6 in) inseam (measured like this), and I chose a Carbonda size M (54). I believe it's better to go by stack and reach measurements than top tube length, read more here or watch this video. The Carbonda is a gravel bike, so you'd expect a more upright position on the bike, which means shorter reach and higher stack. The stack of my current bikes range between 537 and 575, going from full bred racer to endurance road bike. The reach of the same bikes range between 390 and 374. They are both size M (54) and fit me well. However, I believe I could have gone for a size S (51/52) and adjusted with a longer stem. Other things to consider are the effects of shorter vs. longer wheelbase and shorter vs. longer stem length in relation to bike handling. In both cases shorter=more twichy/nimble and longer=more sluggish/stable. On a gravel frame you'd expect more stability than on a road frame. I really can't see you going wrong with either size, but a rule of thumb is to downsize if you're unsure. Spend some time reading up on it and compare the complete frame geometries (e.g. here) before you make a choice.

Regarding the bottom bracket, Shimano road cranks only come in one version: Hollowtech II. The stock CFR505 bottom bracket shell is modeled on PF86/BB86, which is Shimano's own invention, so you can use Shimano's SM-BB72-41B. There are other options out there, so if you want something else just make sure it fits PF86/BB86 shells and is Shimano-compatible (24 mm spindle diameter). E.g. these from Wheelsmfg or this from BBinfinite. Should you prefer a threaded bottom bracket you can ask Carbonda for a frame with a BSA shell. They told me this was not possible anymore, but I know people here have ordered that configuration. In that case you may use the Shimano SM-BBR60 bottom bracket.

Good luck on the project!
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AwesomeColors

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Reply with quote  #773 
Anyone know of a thread/article/blog post/whatever out there about building up one of these?

http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ROAD/ALL/Gravel/2017/0705/136.html

I've already decided that this is the frame I'll be building up next winter, but I was hoping to find some info to read up on first. This one checks all the boxes for me... 700c/650b up to 2.1", fender mounts, standard seatpost, etc.

Any comments on geometry? I'm riding a 2016 Diverge DSW that I love, but the 35mm max tire clearance is bumming me out with how much trail I ride these days.
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owly

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Reply with quote  #774 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AwesomeColors
Anyone know of a thread/article/blog post/whatever out there about building up one of these?

http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ROAD/ALL/Gravel/2017/0705/136.html

I've already decided that this is the frame I'll be building up next winter, but I was hoping to find some info to read up on first. This one checks all the boxes for me... 700c/650b up to 2.1", fender mounts, standard seatpost, etc.

Any comments on geometry? I'm riding a 2016 Diverge DSW that I love, but the 35mm max tire clearance is bumming me out with how much trail I ride these days.


Those chinese frames are generally a bit long and low (Asian style).
Check the stack and reach of your Diverge against the Workswell. 

That frameset looks rather like the ones I've seen in the 'Chinese Open Mold Gravel' thread, over on WeightWeenies forum. Have a look through that (in the Gravel section, of WW).
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Grishka

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Reply with quote  #775 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AwesomeColors
Anyone know of a thread/article/blog post/whatever out there about building up one of these?

http://www.workswellbikes.com/PRODDUCT/ROAD/ALL/Gravel/2017/0705/136.html

I've already decided that this is the frame I'll be building up next winter, but I was hoping to find some info to read up on first. This one checks all the boxes for me... 700c/650b up to 2.1", fender mounts, standard seatpost, etc.

Any comments on geometry? I'm riding a 2016 Diverge DSW that I love, but the 35mm max tire clearance is bumming me out with how much trail I ride these days.


My friend ordered this frame. I can compare it with Carbonda. 
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