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unagidon

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Reply with quote  #326 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteeleWheels


Looking at stack and reach the 57cm 505 frame has a 10mm longer reach and a 5 mm shorter stack than my old 58 cm road bike. Not a huge difference but could be a game changer for me. I have lower back problems and I feel that my road bike is too long. Maybe I should consider the 54cm frame or something different all together. I'm 6'1" and I do have a friend who is 6'3" and he rides a 56cm Cannondale Super Six and loves the fit. I've read on here that people say that the 505 geometry is 100% correct. Wish I could find something similar in a shop to ride.


I'm short at 5'5", but have weird body proportions where my legs are for someone around 5'7", no torso, and short body / arms. So I too end up looking for bikes with short reach, high stack. 

What stem length are you using on your 58cm bike, and how many spacers do you have underneath the stem? And also, what bars are you using? 

I'm riding a 48cm Carbonda (XS) and I really preferred the higher stack on the 51cm (S), but Adam said the standover was much higher than what I'd expect for the given seat tube length. So, I resorted to the 48cm but have 4 spacers and a short 70mm, +17 degree stem, along with so short effective reach (70mm) bars. Feels very comfy actually. In other words, there are things you can do.

Not sure the 54cm is a good idea if the 57 already has a shorter stack. The reach, with a 5mm spacer to equivalize the stack with your 58cm bike, will probably be about 7-8mm longer than your current bike. If you're running a 110mm stem, shortening to a 100 or even 90mm will give you shorter reach. Also, if you angle up...that will reduce reach as well. As for bars - that can actually make a very big difference. You said you have back problems so my suggestion would be the following 3 point plan, assuming your current bike is "just a tad" long:
1) 57cm with more spacers underneath to reduce reach and increase stack
2) Shorten stem, and increase angle - again, reduces reach and increases stack.
3) If you still need more...the new Specialized Hover bars are brilliant - 75mm effective reach (so probably 15-20mm shorter than "regular bars"), and they actually rise up by 15mm, so you get increased stack without looking goofy.



 
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ashOfIce

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Reply with quote  #327 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unagidon


A few things:
  1. Paint. Looks great in general, and maybe it's just optical illusion, but it doesn't seem as even as I'd like it to be. 
  2. The screws on the different parts of the bike like the bottle cage mounts, or the fender mounts - the screws don't seem to screw in as smoothly, easily, or evenly as I've experienced on my brand name bikes.
  3. Seat post slipping - others have said it's an issue with the clamp. But even with the clamp, the fit / finish doesn't look as nice as, say a Thomson or a Salsa clamp.
  4. The fork - when I first got the bike, I couldn't screw it through the fork and asked Adam if it was a production issue. He said it's likely just paint and to "force through" the axle. He was right - it worked, but regardless, my experience with other thru-axle forks (Fox Float 32 fork on Niner Jet 9, Kona Roadhouse, Cervelo C3) all seem to go in easier / smoother. 
But for $703 shipped, with custom color, and based on how it rides...absolutely amazing bike!


Yeah, the ride/performance is definitely (at least) on par with branded frames in the same category, imo. Very well balanced.
But yeah, I guess there's no brand to back it up and take care of all the smaller details that makes up a complete user experience.
All there is needed is a brand to buy exclusivity on the mould and then take care of these things. But that would also increase the price quite a bit... a lot probably [tongue]

One thing I found about the bolts (bottle cage, fender mounts etc.); I use the bike in all weather, which right now means snow/ice and salt on the roads. While I have found spots of rust on the cassette, brake rotors and chain (due to the salt), the bolts stay completely rust free. So, they seem to at least use well anodised bolts [smile]
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SteeleWheels

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Reply with quote  #328 
Quote:
Originally Posted by owly


Fyxation Carbon Adventure frameset (US), or the On-One BishBashBosh frameset (UK), are very similar in geo to the Carbonda. Both are 68mm BSA threaded bottom bracket.

Both around the same price at the moment. the BBB fluctuates wildy in price, depending on the season. I've seen it at $400 at times.


Thanks for the info. I didn't know about those. Looks interesting.
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SteeleWheels

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Reply with quote  #329 
Can anybody suggest a good source for build kits or groupsets? I've been out of the loop for years on building up a bike and a lot has changed and it seems like there are fewer options out there. I'm looking at an all mechanical build. I just like to keep it simple and be able to make repairs with a rubber band and a paperclip. Having a leaking hydraulic brake system is not for me. Been there, done that.
Thanks!
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razorimages

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Reply with quote  #330 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteeleWheels
Can anybody suggest a good source for build kits or groupsets? I've been out of the loop for years on building up a bike and a lot has changed and it seems like there are fewer options out there. I'm looking at an all mechanical build. I just like to keep it simple and be able to make repairs with a rubber band and a paperclip. Having a leaking hydraulic brake system is not for me. Been there, done that.
Thanks!


I'd go for a Shimano 105 groupset, with TRP Spyre discbrakes. I've built a Genesis Equilibrium disc with that, and built was done in 4 hours.
For wheels, Mavic Ksyrium are quite inexpensive and good quality (but on the heavyside)
Chinese wheels are not all the same quality. I suggest LightBicycle wheels. I have 3 pairs with Novatec hubs, never had any problems in like 20000k.

A for Chinese carbon framesets... i have a small experience with them, but i had (small and fixable) issues everytime.
With regular brands i've been riding so far (4 Canondales, 2 Canyon, 1 Cube,  1Genesis...) never had a single problem.  
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piersojs

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Reply with quote  #331 
Quote:
Originally Posted by razorimages


I'd go for a Shimano 105 groupset, with TRP Spyre discbrakes. I've built a Genesis Equilibrium disc with that, and built was done in 4 hours.
For wheels, Mavic Ksyrium are quite inexpensive and good quality (but on the heavyside)
Chinese wheels are not all the same quality. I suggest LightBicycle wheels. I have 3 pairs with Novatec hubs, never had any problems in like 20000k.

A for Chinese carbon framesets... i have a small experience with them, but i had (small and fixable) issues everytime.
With regular brands i've been riding so far (4 Canondales, 2 Canyon, 1 Cube,  1Genesis...) never had a single problem.  




It all depends on what you are used to/like.  I am a fan of Sram and am building my CFR505 with a 1x system:
Apex shifters
Rival 1 Rd
Rival 22/1x cranks with Absolute Black oval direct mount chainring
For me the 1x systems have gotten to the point where they can cover all of the gear ratios that I am looking for and simplifies the system by dropping the FD.

For others:
Did anyone else have a heck of a time running the housing for the brakes?  It seems like the cutouts for the brake line exits on front and rear are way to close to the brakes themselves.  It look a lot of effort and contorting of the housing to get it into the barrel adjuster.

Thanks

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SteeleWheels

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Reply with quote  #332 
Quote:
Originally Posted by piersojs




It all depends on what you are used to/like.  I am a fan of Sram and am building my CFR505 with a 1x system:
Apex shifters
Rival 1 Rd
Rival 22/1x cranks with Absolute Black oval direct mount chainring
For me the 1x systems have gotten to the point where they can cover all of the gear ratios that I am looking for and simplifies the system by dropping the FD.

For others:
Did anyone else have a heck of a time running the housing for the brakes?  It seems like the cutouts for the brake line exits on front and rear are way to close to the brakes themselves.  It look a lot of effort and contorting of the housing to get it into the barrel adjuster.

Thanks



For me, most of my riding will be on the road and gravel roads. I am thinking I'm going to stick to compact road bike gearing for that reason but with an 11-32 on the rear. A 42-11 just won't be fast enough for bombing downhills and on the flats. I've always got my mountain bike for single track. Who knows, that may change but at least I will have a frame where I have that option.
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ashOfIce

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Posts: 21
Reply with quote  #333 
Quote:
Originally Posted by piersojs




It all depends on what you are used to/like.  I am a fan of Sram and am building my CFR505 with a 1x system:
Apex shifters
Rival 1 Rd
Rival 22/1x cranks with Absolute Black oval direct mount chainring
For me the 1x systems have gotten to the point where they can cover all of the gear ratios that I am looking for and simplifies the system by dropping the FD.

For others:
Did anyone else have a heck of a time running the housing for the brakes?  It seems like the cutouts for the brake line exits on front and rear are way to close to the brakes themselves.  It look a lot of effort and contorting of the housing to get it into the barrel adjuster.

Thanks



Regarding the brake hose. I had no problem. I just loosened the banjo bolt at the brake caliper and adjusted the brake hose entry to match. Then it was really no issue.
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SteeleWheels

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Reply with quote  #334 
I went ahead and ordered a 57cm with a BSA. Not sure how I'm going to build it. I may just use the old parts off my old road bike and trash the frame. Of course I need to add discs. Been thinking about picking up some carbon speed wheels.. I have been looking at different gear ratios and a 1x11 looks interesting. Just not going to get the top end speed but I may be ok with that. I like the simplicity. The bike I ride most right now is my old 26" Breezer lightening that I converted into a single speed. As I get older and have less time with kids, coaching, etc. I don't have as much time to maintain my bikes so simple is best.
I'll keep the process updated but frame is approx. 35 days out.
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unagidon

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Reply with quote  #335 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteeleWheels
I went ahead and ordered a 57cm with a BSA. Not sure how I'm going to build it. I may just use the old parts off my old road bike and trash the frame. Of course I need to add discs. Been thinking about picking up some carbon speed wheels.. I have been looking at different gear ratios and a 1x11 looks interesting. Just not going to get the top end speed but I may be ok with that. I like the simplicity. The bike I ride most right now is my old 26" Breezer lightening that I converted into a single speed. As I get older and have less time with kids, coaching, etc. I don't have as much time to maintain my bikes so simple is best.
I'll keep the process updated but frame is approx. 35 days out.


I’m a spinner and must have gears. So for at least the past 5 years, I’ve been riding 46-30 in the front, 11-32 in the back. And I had to pay $400+ for the sugino ox901 crank that offered the 46-30 gear ration, shipped from Japan! Recently, i’ve Seen FSA and even Rotor offer cranks / chainrings in those sizes, so its a great option.

That said, with the new cassette options like 11-42, and depending on what you ride on, single chainring is also a very viable option!

Good luck on the build!
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SteeleWheels

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Reply with quote  #336 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unagidon
I’m a spinner and must have gears. So for at least the past 5 years, I’ve been riding 46-30 in the front, 11-32 in the back. And I had to pay $400+ for the sugino ox901 crank that offered the 46-30 gear ration, shipped from Japan! Recently, i’ve Seen FSA and even Rotor offer cranks / chainrings in those sizes, so its a great option. That said, with the new cassette options like 11-42, and depending on what you ride on, single chainring is also a very viable option! Good luck on the build!


Yes, if I go the 1x route I'll be using an 11-42 with probably a 44 up front. I'll get a slightly better climbing gear and my top end will almost be the same as with a compact and 11-28. I do not envision doing any seriously steep climbs like I find on my mountain bike trails. I've got an 11-42 on my mountain bike with a double and it's ridiculously easy to spin up mountains. I'm no racer so eventually I get there.

Thanks man!
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moi101

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Reply with quote  #337 

Dear all,

I have some issue with my Canyon roadlite 8.0, first, too big for me (second hand pretty cheap) but also I’ve some weird sensations with, maybe due to some incorrect position.

As the equipment is nice, I would like to change the frame only. (Flat bar, disc brakes, compact ultegra 6800 transmission, DT swiss Spline R24 wheels),

 To prepare the “business case”, I come back to you to make sure I thought about everything:

 Missing parts:

- New frame [smile]

- BSA Bottom bracket – no press fit as I’ve some cracking sounds on my canyon and I don’t like it

- Headset

- DT swiss 9mm to thru axles adaptors

- Flat mount to direct mount adaptor

- maybe new shifter cables and  hydraulic tubes, they  might be long enough coming from XL frame.

 What do you think about the flat bar on this frame?

I’m 1m80, should I go more for the 54 or 57? In this forum, I’ve seen tall persons going for the 57, much taller than me.

Is it a normal “round” seat clamp? I want to keep my canyon CVLS seat post (really comfortable). It seems the 2017 version is “square” when the 2018 version is round.

Thank you, 

 

Damien

 

 

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SteeleWheels

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Reply with quote  #338 
I received my graphic from Adam. Nothing fancy, but I decided to throw some paint on the frame.  QQ图片20171121181029.png
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arch0051

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Reply with quote  #339 
Does anyone happen to have the dimensions for the top tube top and down tube sides to design decals on? I can measure them myself but I thought I would ask to see if I could just save a few steps. 

I have the 57 cm frame.

Thanks in advance.

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Croz

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Reply with quote  #340 
SteeleWheels,
I like the matte gray/carbon. I did a gravel ride in October and rode with a guy had a brand new Ridley that was matte gray with burgundy lettering and it looked REALLY sharp.

Ridley gray.jpg 

On an other note, I went through the forum and while some have asked, I never found any replies as to whether there was room for anything bigger than 47s in a 650b... I can live with 47, but bigger would be nice for some bikepacking trips. Even a measurement just aft of the widest point of some 700 tires between the chainstays would be helpful. I'm still deciding between this and the Workswell WCB-R-125 which has room for 2.1" in a 650...

Thanks!

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H00T

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Reply with quote  #341 
I'm about to send an enquiry for one of these but would like some advice first from those more knowledgeable than me.

I am erring towards asking for a BSA BB just because I have no experience with BB86 press-fit and would require some new tools (or maybe just M12 bar and washers...). I am aware that this will have an effect on the lead time.

Given that the BB shell will have to be narrower (for BSA compared to BB86), would there be a noticeable reduction in bottom bracket stiffness? I assume that the chainstays will have to be closer together.

Assuming that the chainstays are indeed closer together is there a compromise by way of reduced tyre clearance or longer chainstays or would the geometry be identical?

If indeed it looks like a BSA BB would result in compromises, have current owners used BB86 with no creaking problems?

Thanks for the help and I look forward to hearing views.
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piersojs

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Reply with quote  #342 
I will say this, I got the Bb86 & only have about 60 miles on it so far with no noise. It will also heavily depend on the bb you choose. I decided to spend a little more to get a higher quality product. I ended up with a Wheels mfg BB86 thread-together. The drive side is pressed in & no - drive ever side threads into the drive side.
I chose to just go with the BB86 & I am glad because it took about 5 1/2 weeks to get my frame as it was. I don't think I could have handled the waiting...
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ashOfIce

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Reply with quote  #343 
Quote:
Originally Posted by H00T
I'm about to send an enquiry for one of these but would like some advice first from those more knowledgeable than me.

I am erring towards asking for a BSA BB just because I have no experience with BB86 press-fit and would require some new tools (or maybe just M12 bar and washers...). I am aware that this will have an effect on the lead time.

Given that the BB shell will have to be narrower (for BSA compared to BB86), would there be a noticeable reduction in bottom bracket stiffness? I assume that the chainstays will have to be closer together.

Assuming that the chainstays are indeed closer together is there a compromise by way of reduced tyre clearance or longer chainstays or would the geometry be identical?

If indeed it looks like a BSA BB would result in compromises, have current owners used BB86 with no creaking problems?

Thanks for the help and I look forward to hearing views.


I don't have the bike in front of me right now. But as far as I remember, the chain stays doesn't bond right where the BB holes are. They are a bit narrower and then there is a small extension of the BB to make it wider. So a BSA BB would just mean that the widening of the BB wouldn't be there to make room for the threaded inserts.
I'm pretty sure the frame has exact same measurements besides the BB width. Else, the factory would have to have separate moulds for the BSA, which most likely would be too costly.
That said, I have 1000+km on the BB86 with a standard BB86 SRAM BB and no creaking what so ever. But if I were to order again, I would wait for the BSA. I try to avoid bicycle components that requires a hammer [smile]
And in terms of performance... Chris Froome has now won 4 Tour de France on BSA (Italian threaded) Pinarello's [wink]
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frostbyteva

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Reply with quote  #344 
+1 for wheels mfg thread together BB. Both of my press fit Bb86 bikes have them and no creaking. You only need one tool to install (cheap Park BB wrench). Plus, since there is no glue or pressing, it is easy to remove when re-cabling time comes around. $95 for the angular contact bearings version. Best choice unless you want ceramic.
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H00T

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Reply with quote  #345 
Thanks for the feedback guys. Based on the comments about geometry, chainstay, performance etc I think I'll go for the BSA and will just have to try and bear the wait! I'm planning to buy a rival 1x groupset which will come with a BSA BB so would have to fork out another £70 (~$100) for the Wheels Manufacturing one.
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piersojs

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Reply with quote  #346 
Quote:
Originally Posted by H00T
Thanks for the feedback guys. Based on the comments about geometry, chainstay, performance etc I think I'll go for the BSA and will just have to try and bear the wait! I'm planning to buy a rival 1x groupset which will come with a BSA BB so would have to fork out another £70 (~$100) for the Wheels Manufacturing one.

I am also runing a mixed 1x drivetrain:
Apex 10 spd shifters
Rival 1 rd
11-36 10 spd cassette
Rival cranks
Absolute Black 40 that oval direct mount chainring.

So far it runs very, very well.
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SteeleWheels

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Posts: 11
Reply with quote  #347 
Quote:
Originally Posted by H00T
Thanks for the feedback guys. Based on the comments about geometry, chainstay, performance etc I think I'll go for the BSA and will just have to try and bear the wait! I'm planning to buy a rival 1x groupset which will come with a BSA BB so would have to fork out another £70 (~$100) for the Wheels Manufacturing one.


I ordered one with a BSA. I don't mind waiting. I don't see an advantage to press fit bearings. I'm old school and will stick with the tried and true threaded BB. It just gives me more time to plan the build and research parts.
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Grishka

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Reply with quote  #348 
Hi, all.
Want to order medium frame in olive/orange combo, with additional mounts on top tube, down tube and fork.
Not decided with bottom bracket.
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