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bobknh

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Reply with quote  #26 
Quote:
Originally Posted by drwelby
The cheaper FSA Tempo Adventure in square taper is available on eBay for $90.

Your "road"  (chainline and Q factor) options come to:

Compass / Rene Herse (square taper)
White Industries VBC (square taper or 24mm)
IRD Defiant Compact (square taper)
Sugino OX601D and OX 901D (24mm)
90s 58/94 BCD mountain cranks  from Ritchey and Suntour that were designed for 120mm bottom bracket widths but run on 103 or 107mm BBs.
FSA Adventure Tempo (square taper or 30mm)
TA Carmina with 94 BCD spider (octalink?)
Velo Orange Grand Cru (TA Cyclotourist clone)(square taper)
Cycles Toussaint Luxe (another TA clone)
Sun XCD Exceed (same as Luxe?)
Middleburn (lots of options)

Take a road triple and take off the outside ring. Run something bigger on the middle position with BMX chainring bolts, or add a chain guard on the outside.

There's also the option of running MTB doubles if you don't mind the wider width. 

Shimano, Sram, FSA, etc...
Stronglight Lexar stands out as a nice looking crank

There may be a way to pair Sram MTB spiders with their road cranks, but from what I've heard it's not as easy as it looks. Though they share the same spline pattern the clearance between the spiders and the crank arm are different.

North Shore Billet makes a 102 BCD spider for Sram cranks which would let you run something like 32/46.

The other option is to use a bigger cassette and Wolftooth Roadlink. If you're worried about chain capacity you might be able to splice a junior cassette with a MTB cassette to come up with something like a 14-40. Then you could use any 34/50 double but have a nice tight gear spacing at a lower overall range.






Thanks for the summary. I ran an 11-40 with an Ultegra 6800 medium cage der. with a Roadlink and a 46/36 Ultegra crank set. I used every link in an 11 speed SRAM chain. It worked quite well - but you do get a bit of chain slack with the 36X11 and 12. I don't use those gears much though. Also the 46/40 stretched the rear der more than I like -- but it didn't do anything catastrophic. Again, the 46/40 isn't a gearing I would normally use.
PS: I'm currently running a SRAM eTapwifli with the Roadlink. So far, I've been able to make my SRAM 11-36 cassette and 46/36 chainrings work reasonably well. Haven't tried the 11-40 yet, however. Don't want to wreck a $610 eTap Wifli!
PPS: My biggest problem with the SRAM eTap is the front der. It doesn't like my 46 outer chainring. It sometimes throws the chain when I shift to the outer chainring. I've carefully checked the cage position and it is well within SRAM spec. I suspect that the problem is the shape of the der. cage which is designed for 50-53 outer chainrings.
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drwelby

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Reply with quote  #27 
A friend just got the Shimano Metrea crank. The chainguard does come off. It definitely has a unique look. Cost was about $130 ordered from Germany.

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borxes

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Reply with quote  #28 
Quote:
Originally Posted by drwelby
A friend just got the Shimano Metrea crank. The chainguard does come off. It definitely has a unique look. Cost was about $130 ordered from Germany.

A newbie question: can I add this Metrea to Specialized Diverge DSW 2016 - now is with Tiagra 4700: 50/34 front, 11/32 rear.
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Slim

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Reply with quote  #29 
Quote:
Originally Posted by borxes

A newbie question: can I add this Metrea to Specialized Diverge DSW 2016 - now is with Tiagra 4700: 50/34 front, 11/32 rear.


Yes you can. Is your current crank Shimano? Then you should able able to just slide it in the existing bottom bracket.
The only question will be the front derailleur. You will need to lower it (which isn't always possible) and see if it shifts well with the smaller rings. You might need to get a different one, like Metrea FD.

You will want to shorten your chain also.

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drwelby

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Reply with quote  #30 
I heard this from a friend:

"Despite FSA telling me last week that Adventure cranks were ~4 months away from delivery, the FSA SL-K 386EVO model is in the QBP catalog (CR2294, CR2295, CR2296) which states that they'll be in stock today (3/27). These dates are usually optimistic, but it sounds like it's finally really real.
Retail price is $400, without a BB"

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ljsmith

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Reply with quote  #31 
Its in stock in Germany.  Also cheaper than MSRP.

https://www.bike24.com/p2209251.html
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Cmtgravel

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Reply with quote  #32 
So I just looked at the shimano metrea, and it only goes down to 32t for smallest inner ring. Not really sure what the point of that is, only 2 teeth less than what's already available. All the other options are either 400 bucks or more, or square taper BB's in the more affordable options. Wtf? I can't believe there aren't more choices readily available. The demand seems high. So I may be stuck using an mtb crank, but then there's the wider Q factor , derailleur reach, and chain line issues to deal with. Has anyone had success with this? And if so,what crankset? Any issues?
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ljsmith

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Reply with quote  #33 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmtgravel
So I just looked at the shimano metrea, and it only goes down to 32t for smallest inner ring. Not really sure what the point of that is, only 2 teeth less than what's already available. All the other options are either 400 bucks or more, or square taper BB's in the more affordable options. Wtf? I can't believe there aren't more choices readily available. The demand seems high. So I may be stuck using an mtb crank, but then there's the wider Q factor , derailleur reach, and chain line issues to deal with. Has anyone had success with this? And if so,what crankset? Any issues?


I am using mountain cranks on my bikes, mainly because narrow Q factor cranks give me knee pain.  If you have a 135 or 142 rear end, then chainline will actually be better.  Road cranks are still designed around 130mm rears, so their chainline is actually slightly off on a 135/142 frame.  Derailleur reach has not been an issue for me.  I am using XX1 cranks with a Force bolt on 110mm spider, but I'm using 50/34 rings.  FYI XX1 cranks can be had in a narrower 156 q factor.  Any of the SRAM mountain cranksets with bolt on spiders give you a lot of options since they allow a lot of mix and match.
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GrinderTom

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Reply with quote  #34 
Finally got the Rotor 46/30 rings from the UK and got them installed.  

IMG_6020-Rotor.JPG 

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drwelby

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Reply with quote  #35 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmtgravel
So I just looked at the shimano metrea, and it only goes down to 32t for smallest inner ring. Not really sure what the point of that is, only 2 teeth less than what's already available. All the other options are either 400 bucks or more, or square taper BB's in the more affordable options. Wtf?


You should be able to swap it out with a 30 tooth ring from the mountain groups, but I don't know anyone who's actually done it.

Considering Shimano still doesn't have a clutch road derailleur, I wouldn't expect any miracles from them.
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Smale Rider

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Reply with quote  #36 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrinderTom
Finally got the Rotor 46/30 rings from the UK and got them installed.  

IMG_6020-Rotor.JPG 


I must know where you got those from. I run Rotor cranks as well, and was disappointed that I wouldn't ever be able to run 46/30. Do they run with 3d+ cranks?
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GrinderTom

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Reply with quote  #37 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smale Rider
I must know where you got those from. I run Rotor cranks as well, and was disappointed that I wouldn't ever be able to run 46/30. Do they run with 3d+ cranks?


Got them from here.  Ordered on Thursday from this UK site.  Were at my door in Indiana the following Monday!
http://www.velotechservices.co.uk/shop/vclose2.asp?prd=224549&cat=373
I was unable to find them in the US and even most European sites don't seem to have them.  Looks like Velotechservices has 3 sets in stock now.

They should fit the 3D+.  You need a special tool to get the lockring off that holds the spider.  


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Smale Rider

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Reply with quote  #38 
Thanks for the "hook-up". I wish the ramps were a bit more aggressive like my wikwerks rings, but sacrifices must be made. I don't know how I missed the launch of the rotor rings, they don't even bother listing them on their website clearly. Getting the tool from power2max as well
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Nbudor

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Reply with quote  #39 
I bought  FSA Omega 48/32 crankset that should arrive this week. I got it on an auction I figured I wouldn't win with my low ball bid. Anyway, it's uses 19mm spindle and it's kinda heavy, but I figure it weighs about the same as Sugino OX601d but cost me a fraction of  that.
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tomasumter

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Reply with quote  #40 
I recently replaced my 46/36 crankset with Praxis Works 48/32. Big improvement! I run a wide range 11-36 SRAM cassette in the rear, and this combination is a big boost in the steep hills and on road segments where I used to spin out.
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ljsmith

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Reply with quote  #41 
Quote:
Originally Posted by drwelby

There may be a way to pair Sram MTB spiders with their road cranks, but from what I've heard it's not as easy as it looks. Though they share the same spline pattern the clearance between the spiders and the crank arm are different.



You can run an SRAM mountain spider on road cranks.  The issue is that the large mountain chainrings have a longer post to stop the chain from getting wedged in between the crank and ring.  All you would need to do is dremel or saw off some of this post to make it fit.  
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drwelby

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Reply with quote  #42 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljsmith


You can run an SRAM mountain spider on road cranks.  The issue is that the large mountain chainrings have a longer post to stop the chain from getting wedged in between the crank and ring.  All you would need to do is dremel or saw off some of this post to make it fit.  


Not always though. I have this info from a friend who was messing around with this:

 

Quote:

For example a X9 GXP spider is the same spline pattern as a S series road carbon GXP arm but the arm is wider and interferes with the area of the X9 spider around the spline interface.

I haven't messed about with this in a while but before 11s road stuff came out I found that there were more cranks that did not work than ones that did.

However... I do have an X9 spider somewhere so measure the width of the arm and I'll take a look. AFIK the aftermarket GXP spiders are the same as X9.

It's possible that the spider straight up wont fit because the raised areas around the flat splined part vary quite a bit. Starting with a carbon crank mtb spider is probably your best bet though.

 

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bnystrom

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Reply with quote  #43 
There's a disadvantage to the FSA SL-K Adventure crank that I don't think anyone has mentioned; it uses a 90mm bolt circle for the inner ring. That limits the minimum size of the ring (probably to the 30t that it comes with) and makes it proprietary to FSA. The Sugino cranks OTOH allow down to 24 teeth on the inner ring.
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Nbudor

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Reply with quote  #44 
My fsa Omega 48/32 crankset came with too short cranks unfortunately. However I decided to tinker a bit with SRAM Force22 cranks and X0 spider.  Using 120/80 spider opens an option of 48/28 combo right now, but I could also use 45 or 44 t big rings and 30mm small rings. 
Also switching to 104 bcd spider opens up a lot of tinkering options.
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bnystrom

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Reply with quote  #45 
I just want to clarify, you're using an XO spider and rings on Force 22 crankarms? I wasn't aware that the Force spider was replaceable. Is the chainline the same with this combination? If so, that's really interesting!
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Nbudor

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Reply with quote  #46 
Force 22 has a removable spider and I can confirm that Truvativ X0 120/80bcd spider fits the crankarms. I haven't mounted the cranks yet so I don't know about the chainline yet. I got the idea from reading Peter Verdone's blog post where he used force crankarms on mtb spiders:
http://www.peterverdone.com/spider-attack/
The only difference I can think of is that he has gxp cranks and I've got bb30.
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bnystrom

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Reply with quote  #47 
That's really good information to know, thanks! It would be great if you could measure the chainline with each spider/rings combination to see if there is any difference. It may be possible to do so without mounting the cranks, by supporting the right arm on a flat surface and measuring from that. I read Peter's article and it's not clear what, if any, combination of spider and MTB rings would provide the same chainline as a road spider and rings.
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Nbudor

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Reply with quote  #48 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bnystrom
That's really good information to know, thanks! It would be great if you could measure the chainline with each spider/rings combination to see if there is any difference. It may be possible to do so without mounting the cranks, by supporting the right arm on a flat surface and measuring from that. I read Peter's article and it's not clear what, if any, combination of spider and MTB rings would provide the same chainline as a road spider and rings.
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Nbudor

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Reply with quote  #49 
Actually my bike has 135mm rear spacing so mtb chainline would be a benefit, perhaps. Anyway as per sram documents mtb 2x chainline is 49mm and road 43.5mm
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bnystrom

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Reply with quote  #50 
Sure, I've seen those figures. But those are for an MTB spider & rings on MTB crankarms and a road spider & rings on road crankarms, respectively.

The question is what do you get when you put an MTB spider & rings on road crankarms? It could be either of those or something different.

Like your bike, the Niner BSB9 that I'm looking to change the gearing on has a 135mm rear end, but it has a 68mm BB and all models of it come with road cranks. Niner hasn't been able to tell me what chainline the frame is actually designed for. One person told me definitely road and the other said that "MTB cranks might provide a better chainline'. I've checked it with a straightedge and the road cranks do seem to line up properly with the cassette, so I'm hesitant to change the chainline. Otherwise, I'd just buy an MTB crank and be done with it.
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