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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #1 
Ok so I have been looking at the Roker now for at least 2-3 months now. More so since the 2017 is going to be the last year of production of them.

I just happen to read in Velo News today that it has the capability of being 2x since there are 2 cable ports or something like that.

So calling Raleigh today they said I would need the following

Sram Rival 2 speed hydro shifter

different crank

and

Sram Rival braze on derailleur

Any guesses as to what this would cost parts wise and then labor to have an LBS to install. Finally would the set up be as good as factory installed.

If I bought the bike I would like the option of going 2x if I didn't like the 1x set up. I have read that you either have to be able to buy into the 1x or not when buying the 1x bike but looks like the 2x could be an option here. I wouldn't go 2x right away unless the LBS would be willing to give me some credit for the new 1x parts.

If I was only riding/racing in the Mid West I think the 1x would be great or near perfect. Here in the hilly East Coast I am not sure especially when I see a write up saying in you live in a hilly area you might want 2x.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Zman


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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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EddNog

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Reply with quote  #2 
Depends on your primary concern with a 1X setup. If you think you're range limited with a 1X setup, I will say that you may not be as range limited as you might think; I run a SunRace CSMX80 11-50 cassette on my RXC with a Wolf Tooth RoadLink and Rival 1 Long Cage derailleur with a 44T narrow-wide oval and it works perfectly for me. However, if your concern is with large gaps between gears, then I cannot tell you how you will like it until you try it (especially if you decide to go uber range like I did). As an avid trail rider, I am comfortable with a very, very wide cadence range, so the large gaps basically don't bother me at all, but I know other people that refuse to give up their triples because they need to always be pedaling their 86.3246rpm. I'm an East Coast rider as well, riding in all sorts of places from downstate NY/NY Metro all the way to Northern MD/Eastern PA, which is why I need the ridiculous range, but I ride solely on oval chainrings, and double ovals shift like poop, so I have converted all of my bikes to 1X.

-Ed
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #3 
I guess I have a few different thought processes going thru my mine.

1. I kind of plan on doing all the ultra gravel ride/races out there. DK200 will probably be last on the list but the Epic 150, Rebecca's private ride and a few others top this list. So that being said heck yes I could probably lose 10-15 lbs to get in better shape but at the end of the day a 5 lb+ lighter bike than my current Tamland 1 is going to make a big difference.

I am just curious about a carbon or a ti gravel bike so the Roker ticks off the carbon box.

My LBS doesn't like the 1x and I probably won't know if I like the 1x until I try it. I don't think I will be too much concerned about the gear jumps. I think it will all come down to does it climb as easy in the lowest 1x gearing like a 2x does.

Thanks for your input.
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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EddNog

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Reply with quote  #4 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman
I guess I have a few different thought processes going thru my mine.

1. I kind of plan on doing all the ultra gravel ride/races out there. DK200 will probably be last on the list but the Epic 150, Rebecca's private ride and a few others top this list. So that being said heck yes I could probably lose 10-15 lbs to get in better shape but at the end of the day a 5 lb+ lighter bike than my current Tamland 1 is going to make a big difference.

I am just curious about a carbon or a ti gravel bike so the Roker ticks off the carbon box.

My LBS doesn't like the 1x and I probably won't know if I like the 1x until I try it. I don't think I will be too much concerned about the gear jumps. I think it will all come down to does it climb as easy in the lowest 1x gearing like a 2x does.

Thanks for your input.
Zman


The math is easy; what is the lowest gear you’d run on a double? 50/34 chainrings with an 11-32 cassette only gets you down to a 34/32 bailout, which is still above 1:1. Even if you ran a 50T ring with the 11-50 cassette, you’d have a 50/50 climbing gear, which is direct drive (1:1). With my 44T ring, my bail-out (44/50) is full blown underdrive! The bigger question is: do you prefer to pedal descents to ludicrous speeds, or do you coast like I do once grades pitch under -5% and speeds exceed 30mph?

Even if your LBS recommends against the 11-50, an 11-46 worked for me without even using a RoadLink and you’re still talking underdrive with a 44T ring, and the 44/11 is still tall enough for me to sprint to 30+ mph on flats.

-Ed
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by EddNog
The math is easy; what is the lowest gear you’d run on a double? 50/34 chainrings with an 11-32 cassette only gets you down to a 34/32 bailout, which is still above 1:1. Even if you ran a 50T ring with the 11-50 cassette, you’d have a 50/50 climbing gear, which is direct drive (1:1). With my 44T ring, my bail-out (44/50) is full blown underdrive! The bigger question is: do you prefer to pedal descents to ludicrous speeds, or do you coast like I do once grades pitch under -5% and speeds exceed 30mph? Even if your LBS recommends against the 11-50, an 11-46 worked for me without even using a RoadLink and you’re still talking underdrive with a 44T ring, and the 44/11 is still tall enough for me to sprint to 30+ mph on flats. -Ed


First thing I did when I tried my Tamland on my local mt was switch my Shimano 11-32 cassette to a 11-36 Sram with the road link. I still had a tough time at the Maple Century ride in Honesdale in the fall. Yes for sure I wasn't in the  shape I should have been for that ride. I walked more hills/mts. that day than all my years of riding my road bike since 1992.

Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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EddNog

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Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


First thing I did when I tried my Tamland on my local mt was switch my Shimano 11-32 cassette to a 11-36 Sram with the road link. I still had a tough time at the Maple Century ride in Honesdale in the fall. Yes for sure I wasn't in the  shape I should have been for that ride. I walked more hills/mts. that day than all my years of riding my road bike since 1992.

Zman


Oof; that’s tough. The only suggestion I have is something extreme. If you had a SRAM groupset, I would suggest swapping to a GX 2x10 long cage derailleur and running an 11-42 cassette (I had a 50/36x11-42 setup on my previous road bike), but that is...overkill for most.

-Ed
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rcedwards

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Reply with quote  #7 
My  road bike was stolen and when looking for a replacement, I was in the same boat as you. Living west of Denver in the foothills of the Rockies, I spent forever debating 1x or 2x especially since I have a double stroller to tote my two oldest boys. My old bike had a 30/42/53 chainring with a 9/12-23 derailleur, which is actually geared higher than the Roker. I used this site to compare the two.

I ended up getting the Roker Comp and can say I'm very pleased, though that's not hard to do. I commute every day on it, 13 miles there and 7 back on a mix of paved bike paths and dirt trails. I'll spin out going downhill if it's steep enough, but I'd rather be able to make it up in the first place. If I need different gearing, I'll just swap the chainring [biggrin]
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squak

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Reply with quote  #8 

Regarding 1x vs 2x I'd say get that figured out before spending a bunch of money a new bike.  Converting the Roker Comp to 2x could easily set you back $500 in parts alone and will be a minor PITA if you do the work yourself.  If you're leaning toward 2x just find a bike you like that's already set up that way.  I have the Roker Comp and really like the Rival 1x drivetrain, but would have been equally happy if the bike had come with a Shimano 2x groupset.  I have thousands of miles on Ultegra 6800 and can find no fault with it--front shifting in particular is excellent.  All that said, if I wanted to convert my Roker to 2x I wouldn't touch the 1x front brake lever.  Just install a bar end shifter to handle front shifting.  Cheap and easy. 

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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by squak

Regarding 1x vs 2x I'd say get that figured out before spending a bunch of money a new bike.  Converting the Roker Comp to 2x could easily set you back $500 in parts alone and will be a minor PITA if you do the work yourself.  If you're leaning toward 2x just find a bike you like that's already set up that way.  I have the Roker Comp and really like the Rival 1x drivetrain, but would have been equally happy if the bike had come with a Shimano 2x groupset.  I have thousands of miles on Ultegra 6800 and can find no fault with it--front shifting in particular is excellent.  All that said, if I wanted to convert my Roker to 2x I wouldn't touch the 1x front brake lever.  Just install a bar end shifter to handle front shifting.  Cheap and easy. 



Hey squak thanks for this info. I am  not the bike geek parts guy but I guess my LBS could figure out how to put the bar end shifter on the bike if I didn't like the 1x. Yes I have the 2016 Tamland 1 and luv it to death except for the what seems like 5 lbs. too heavy when I am climbing heavy stuff. Being the newbie to gravel riding and deciding to get into it around Easter after a drunk hit me in Jan. I don't have much to compare the Tamland 1 to as my only gravel/mt. bike before it was a cheapo Schwinn bike which was hardly a step up from a Wally World bike. So yeah the Tamland feels like a sweet ride to me after riding that. I can't justify going out and spending $3000 - $4000 for a gravel bike right now so yeah the Corporate discount rate for $1799 seems very tempting to me for sure. The other kicker even though I don't know if the 1x is going to fit my lifestyle/riding or not at least I know that I should like the frame/geometry as I already like the Tamland a very similar bike. I guess that is all for now. Do you see any negatives with the Roker Comp bike?

Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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squak

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Reply with quote  #10 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


Hey squak thanks for this info. I am  not the bike geek parts guy but I guess my LBS could figure out how to put the bar end shifter on the bike if I didn't like the 1x. Yes I have the 2016 Tamland 1 and luv it to death except for the what seems like 5 lbs. too heavy when I am climbing heavy stuff. Being the newbie to gravel riding and deciding to get into it around Easter after a drunk hit me in Jan. I don't have much to compare the Tamland 1 to as my only gravel/mt. bike before it was a cheapo Schwinn bike which was hardly a step up from a Wally World bike. So yeah the Tamland feels like a sweet ride to me after riding that. I can't justify going out and spending $3000 - $4000 for a gravel bike right now so yeah the Corporate discount rate for $1799 seems very tempting to me for sure. The other kicker even though I don't know if the 1x is going to fit my lifestyle/riding or not at least I know that I should like the frame/geometry as I already like the Tamland a very similar bike. I guess that is all for now. Do you see any negatives with the Roker Comp bike?

Thanks
Zman


The Roker is great, but if you love your Tamland ride it into the ground.  The only thing that kept me from getting the 2017 Tamland 2 instead of the Roker Comp was the mechanical disc brakes.  Have you considered replacing your stock wheels?  You could probably drop 1-2 lbs. of rotating weight without spending a fortune.  
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by squak


The Roker is great, but if you love your Tamland ride it into the ground.  The only thing that kept me from getting the 2017 Tamland 2 instead of the Roker Comp was the mechanical disc brakes.  Have you considered replacing your stock wheels?  You could probably drop 1-2 lbs. of rotating weight without spending a fortune.  


squak thanks for your reply. I guess the Roker has been on my radar for quite some time. It sure doesn't help that the 2017 will be the last year for it right now. I am 66 soon to be 67 this spring. Getting into gravel racing kind of late but for sure loving it immensely. Shoota posts on here and he spent a grand on trying to make his Tamland lighter and kind of felt it wasn't money well spent as it's still a 23 or 24 lbs bike after that money being spent.. My thoughts are that the new wheel set up is probably going to cost me $500 - $600 and I can get the Roker right now with the Corporate discount for around $1799 so for about a $1000 more I can buy the Roker. I can run the wheels into the ground and then when they go bad do the wheel upgrade. Since both have about the same set up. I could train on the Tamland and then race on the Roker. I could also have 2 different kind of tire set up although my Tamland is Quick release and the Roker isn't I don't know how that works out. I am looking forward to 2018 and doing some more racing now that I did kind of get my feet wet in 2017(3 races and the Pony Express being the one I really loved or feel in love with Gravel Racing) I had a few medical issues one being that I had some major collarbone pain for about 3 months starting in May. So I don't know how well I can ride if I get back in race shape. Curious as to where you ride. Here in Pa. I have to ride about 11 miles to even get to some gravel which is mostly Mt. fire tower roads and some are really rough and for sure steep and long. 

If you wanted to read my ride report on the Tamland look over at gravelcyclist.com and look under racing Larry Brenize 75 miler Pony Express.

Thanks for the feedback
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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jeredb

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Reply with quote  #12 
I have a 2x 105 hydro Roker and it is my favorite bike!! I love it for everything! It must be older if it is 2x... I'd say on the east coast you might be fine with the 1x, I grew up riding back east, so I know the hills a bit. I live in Oregon now and have been using the Roker on lots of gravel and road rides, the bike climbs very well once you get a good wheelset on there! I have 32/36 gearing and have been quite happy climbing all but the steepest 12+ percent dirt/gravel climbs. Even then it is more traction than ability to turn the cranks. I'd buy the 1x, live with it for awhile and then go 2x if you want.

Another bike to look at is the Diamondback Hanjo. A buddy has one running GIANT tires and an XT rear mech with a 46. It is a rad bike. On the downside one of his fork mounts ripped out while bikepacking and Diamondback refused to warranty the fork, which is total BS as the insert ripped out under totally normal bikepacking conditions. I believe Diamondback and Raleigh are part of the same mega corporate group, soooo I'd assume you'd get the same customer service either way...

At any rate I love the heck out of my Roker. I use the stock wheelset as my commuter road tubeless 28 wheels and built a Hope/H+Son Hydra set with Maxxis Ramblers for gravel. You can run 40's with fenders EASILY (though I bought very wide full coverage fenders that needed to be cut to fit). I use the bike on 95% of my gravel rides (Fargo is the extra burly other 5%) and 70% of my road rides (Focus Izalco is the fastest 30% of rides). The Roker handles CX racing for me and some flowy buff single track as well.
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