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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #1 
Ok so I have been looking at the Roker now for at least 2-3 months now. More so since the 2017 is going to be the last year of production of them.

I just happen to read in Velo News today that it has the capability of being 2x since there are 2 cable ports or something like that.

So calling Raleigh today they said I would need the following

Sram Rival 2 speed hydro shifter

different crank

and

Sram Rival braze on derailleur

Any guesses as to what this would cost parts wise and then labor to have an LBS to install. Finally would the set up be as good as factory installed.

If I bought the bike I would like the option of going 2x if I didn't like the 1x set up. I have read that you either have to be able to buy into the 1x or not when buying the 1x bike but looks like the 2x could be an option here. I wouldn't go 2x right away unless the LBS would be willing to give me some credit for the new 1x parts.

If I was only riding/racing in the Mid West I think the 1x would be great or near perfect. Here in the hilly East Coast I am not sure especially when I see a write up saying in you live in a hilly area you might want 2x.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Zman


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EddNog

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Reply with quote  #2 
Depends on your primary concern with a 1X setup. If you think you're range limited with a 1X setup, I will say that you may not be as range limited as you might think; I run a SunRace CSMX80 11-50 cassette on my RXC with a Wolf Tooth RoadLink and Rival 1 Long Cage derailleur with a 44T narrow-wide oval and it works perfectly for me. However, if your concern is with large gaps between gears, then I cannot tell you how you will like it until you try it (especially if you decide to go uber range like I did). As an avid trail rider, I am comfortable with a very, very wide cadence range, so the large gaps basically don't bother me at all, but I know other people that refuse to give up their triples because they need to always be pedaling their 86.3246rpm. I'm an East Coast rider as well, riding in all sorts of places from downstate NY/NY Metro all the way to Northern MD/Eastern PA, which is why I need the ridiculous range, but I ride solely on oval chainrings, and double ovals shift like poop, so I have converted all of my bikes to 1X.

-Ed
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #3 
I guess I have a few different thought processes going thru my mine.

1. I kind of plan on doing all the ultra gravel ride/races out there. DK200 will probably be last on the list but the Epic 150, Rebecca's private ride and a few others top this list. So that being said heck yes I could probably lose 10-15 lbs to get in better shape but at the end of the day a 5 lb+ lighter bike than my current Tamland 1 is going to make a big difference.

I am just curious about a carbon or a ti gravel bike so the Roker ticks off the carbon box.

My LBS doesn't like the 1x and I probably won't know if I like the 1x until I try it. I don't think I will be too much concerned about the gear jumps. I think it will all come down to does it climb as easy in the lowest 1x gearing like a 2x does.

Thanks for your input.
Zman

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EddNog

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Reply with quote  #4 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman
I guess I have a few different thought processes going thru my mine.

1. I kind of plan on doing all the ultra gravel ride/races out there. DK200 will probably be last on the list but the Epic 150, Rebecca's private ride and a few others top this list. So that being said heck yes I could probably lose 10-15 lbs to get in better shape but at the end of the day a 5 lb+ lighter bike than my current Tamland 1 is going to make a big difference.

I am just curious about a carbon or a ti gravel bike so the Roker ticks off the carbon box.

My LBS doesn't like the 1x and I probably won't know if I like the 1x until I try it. I don't think I will be too much concerned about the gear jumps. I think it will all come down to does it climb as easy in the lowest 1x gearing like a 2x does.

Thanks for your input.
Zman


The math is easy; what is the lowest gear you’d run on a double? 50/34 chainrings with an 11-32 cassette only gets you down to a 34/32 bailout, which is still above 1:1. Even if you ran a 50T ring with the 11-50 cassette, you’d have a 50/50 climbing gear, which is direct drive (1:1). With my 44T ring, my bail-out (44/50) is full blown underdrive! The bigger question is: do you prefer to pedal descents to ludicrous speeds, or do you coast like I do once grades pitch under -5% and speeds exceed 30mph?

Even if your LBS recommends against the 11-50, an 11-46 worked for me without even using a RoadLink and you’re still talking underdrive with a 44T ring, and the 44/11 is still tall enough for me to sprint to 30+ mph on flats.

-Ed
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by EddNog
The math is easy; what is the lowest gear you’d run on a double? 50/34 chainrings with an 11-32 cassette only gets you down to a 34/32 bailout, which is still above 1:1. Even if you ran a 50T ring with the 11-50 cassette, you’d have a 50/50 climbing gear, which is direct drive (1:1). With my 44T ring, my bail-out (44/50) is full blown underdrive! The bigger question is: do you prefer to pedal descents to ludicrous speeds, or do you coast like I do once grades pitch under -5% and speeds exceed 30mph? Even if your LBS recommends against the 11-50, an 11-46 worked for me without even using a RoadLink and you’re still talking underdrive with a 44T ring, and the 44/11 is still tall enough for me to sprint to 30+ mph on flats. -Ed


First thing I did when I tried my Tamland on my local mt was switch my Shimano 11-32 cassette to a 11-36 Sram with the road link. I still had a tough time at the Maple Century ride in Honesdale in the fall. Yes for sure I wasn't in the  shape I should have been for that ride. I walked more hills/mts. that day than all my years of riding my road bike since 1992.

Zman

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EddNog

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Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


First thing I did when I tried my Tamland on my local mt was switch my Shimano 11-32 cassette to a 11-36 Sram with the road link. I still had a tough time at the Maple Century ride in Honesdale in the fall. Yes for sure I wasn't in the  shape I should have been for that ride. I walked more hills/mts. that day than all my years of riding my road bike since 1992.

Zman


Oof; that’s tough. The only suggestion I have is something extreme. If you had a SRAM groupset, I would suggest swapping to a GX 2x10 long cage derailleur and running an 11-42 cassette (I had a 50/36x11-42 setup on my previous road bike), but that is...overkill for most.

-Ed
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rcedwards

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Reply with quote  #7 
My  road bike was stolen and when looking for a replacement, I was in the same boat as you. Living west of Denver in the foothills of the Rockies, I spent forever debating 1x or 2x especially since I have a double stroller to tote my two oldest boys. My old bike had a 30/42/53 chainring with a 9/12-23 derailleur, which is actually geared higher than the Roker. I used this site to compare the two.

I ended up getting the Roker Comp and can say I'm very pleased, though that's not hard to do. I commute every day on it, 13 miles there and 7 back on a mix of paved bike paths and dirt trails. I'll spin out going downhill if it's steep enough, but I'd rather be able to make it up in the first place. If I need different gearing, I'll just swap the chainring [biggrin]
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squak

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Reply with quote  #8 

Regarding 1x vs 2x I'd say get that figured out before spending a bunch of money a new bike.  Converting the Roker Comp to 2x could easily set you back $500 in parts alone and will be a minor PITA if you do the work yourself.  If you're leaning toward 2x just find a bike you like that's already set up that way.  I have the Roker Comp and really like the Rival 1x drivetrain, but would have been equally happy if the bike had come with a Shimano 2x groupset.  I have thousands of miles on Ultegra 6800 and can find no fault with it--front shifting in particular is excellent.  All that said, if I wanted to convert my Roker to 2x I wouldn't touch the 1x front brake lever.  Just install a bar end shifter to handle front shifting.  Cheap and easy. 

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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by squak

Regarding 1x vs 2x I'd say get that figured out before spending a bunch of money a new bike.  Converting the Roker Comp to 2x could easily set you back $500 in parts alone and will be a minor PITA if you do the work yourself.  If you're leaning toward 2x just find a bike you like that's already set up that way.  I have the Roker Comp and really like the Rival 1x drivetrain, but would have been equally happy if the bike had come with a Shimano 2x groupset.  I have thousands of miles on Ultegra 6800 and can find no fault with it--front shifting in particular is excellent.  All that said, if I wanted to convert my Roker to 2x I wouldn't touch the 1x front brake lever.  Just install a bar end shifter to handle front shifting.  Cheap and easy. 



Hey squak thanks for this info. I am  not the bike geek parts guy but I guess my LBS could figure out how to put the bar end shifter on the bike if I didn't like the 1x. Yes I have the 2016 Tamland 1 and luv it to death except for the what seems like 5 lbs. too heavy when I am climbing heavy stuff. Being the newbie to gravel riding and deciding to get into it around Easter after a drunk hit me in Jan. I don't have much to compare the Tamland 1 to as my only gravel/mt. bike before it was a cheapo Schwinn bike which was hardly a step up from a Wally World bike. So yeah the Tamland feels like a sweet ride to me after riding that. I can't justify going out and spending $3000 - $4000 for a gravel bike right now so yeah the Corporate discount rate for $1799 seems very tempting to me for sure. The other kicker even though I don't know if the 1x is going to fit my lifestyle/riding or not at least I know that I should like the frame/geometry as I already like the Tamland a very similar bike. I guess that is all for now. Do you see any negatives with the Roker Comp bike?

Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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squak

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Reply with quote  #10 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


Hey squak thanks for this info. I am  not the bike geek parts guy but I guess my LBS could figure out how to put the bar end shifter on the bike if I didn't like the 1x. Yes I have the 2016 Tamland 1 and luv it to death except for the what seems like 5 lbs. too heavy when I am climbing heavy stuff. Being the newbie to gravel riding and deciding to get into it around Easter after a drunk hit me in Jan. I don't have much to compare the Tamland 1 to as my only gravel/mt. bike before it was a cheapo Schwinn bike which was hardly a step up from a Wally World bike. So yeah the Tamland feels like a sweet ride to me after riding that. I can't justify going out and spending $3000 - $4000 for a gravel bike right now so yeah the Corporate discount rate for $1799 seems very tempting to me for sure. The other kicker even though I don't know if the 1x is going to fit my lifestyle/riding or not at least I know that I should like the frame/geometry as I already like the Tamland a very similar bike. I guess that is all for now. Do you see any negatives with the Roker Comp bike?

Thanks
Zman


The Roker is great, but if you love your Tamland ride it into the ground.  The only thing that kept me from getting the 2017 Tamland 2 instead of the Roker Comp was the mechanical disc brakes.  Have you considered replacing your stock wheels?  You could probably drop 1-2 lbs. of rotating weight without spending a fortune.  
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by squak


The Roker is great, but if you love your Tamland ride it into the ground.  The only thing that kept me from getting the 2017 Tamland 2 instead of the Roker Comp was the mechanical disc brakes.  Have you considered replacing your stock wheels?  You could probably drop 1-2 lbs. of rotating weight without spending a fortune.  


squak thanks for your reply. I guess the Roker has been on my radar for quite some time. It sure doesn't help that the 2017 will be the last year for it right now. I am 66 soon to be 67 this spring. Getting into gravel racing kind of late but for sure loving it immensely. Shoota posts on here and he spent a grand on trying to make his Tamland lighter and kind of felt it wasn't money well spent as it's still a 23 or 24 lbs bike after that money being spent.. My thoughts are that the new wheel set up is probably going to cost me $500 - $600 and I can get the Roker right now with the Corporate discount for around $1799 so for about a $1000 more I can buy the Roker. I can run the wheels into the ground and then when they go bad do the wheel upgrade. Since both have about the same set up. I could train on the Tamland and then race on the Roker. I could also have 2 different kind of tire set up although my Tamland is Quick release and the Roker isn't I don't know how that works out. I am looking forward to 2018 and doing some more racing now that I did kind of get my feet wet in 2017(3 races and the Pony Express being the one I really loved or feel in love with Gravel Racing) I had a few medical issues one being that I had some major collarbone pain for about 3 months starting in May. So I don't know how well I can ride if I get back in race shape. Curious as to where you ride. Here in Pa. I have to ride about 11 miles to even get to some gravel which is mostly Mt. fire tower roads and some are really rough and for sure steep and long. 

If you wanted to read my ride report on the Tamland look over at gravelcyclist.com and look under racing Larry Brenize 75 miler Pony Express.

Thanks for the feedback
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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jeredb

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Reply with quote  #12 
I have a 2x 105 hydro Roker and it is my favorite bike!! I love it for everything! It must be older if it is 2x... I'd say on the east coast you might be fine with the 1x, I grew up riding back east, so I know the hills a bit. I live in Oregon now and have been using the Roker on lots of gravel and road rides, the bike climbs very well once you get a good wheelset on there! I have 32/36 gearing and have been quite happy climbing all but the steepest 12+ percent dirt/gravel climbs. Even then it is more traction than ability to turn the cranks. I'd buy the 1x, live with it for awhile and then go 2x if you want.

Another bike to look at is the Diamondback Hanjo. A buddy has one running GIANT tires and an XT rear mech with a 46. It is a rad bike. On the downside one of his fork mounts ripped out while bikepacking and Diamondback refused to warranty the fork, which is total BS as the insert ripped out under totally normal bikepacking conditions. I believe Diamondback and Raleigh are part of the same mega corporate group, soooo I'd assume you'd get the same customer service either way...

At any rate I love the heck out of my Roker. I use the stock wheelset as my commuter road tubeless 28 wheels and built a Hope/H+Son Hydra set with Maxxis Ramblers for gravel. You can run 40's with fenders EASILY (though I bought very wide full coverage fenders that needed to be cut to fit). I use the bike on 95% of my gravel rides (Fargo is the extra burly other 5%) and 70% of my road rides (Focus Izalco is the fastest 30% of rides). The Roker handles CX racing for me and some flowy buff single track as well.
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bwepps

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Reply with quote  #13 

X1 vs. 2X:

I am personally a big fan of SRAM's X1 system.  I'm running two gravel bikes (Specialized Sequoia and 2018 Diverge Expert) in the SRAM Force X1 set up.  Both bikes are 44T up front with an 11x42 or 10x42 Cassette.  I've done several hilly gravel events on both bikes including the DK200 this past summer (some horrific & long climbs).  I've been an X1 convert since I ran it on my fatbike.  Yes - there are "gaps."  I don't find it to be an issue and if anything it's helped me to learn how to pedal within a slightly longer range of cadences.  Additionally, if you're riding on a nasty "B" road or some really nasty, big rock type gravel, dropping a chain while shifting is a non-issue.  

For you this is a personal decision (IMHO), but my LBS is a big proponent of SRAM overall and X1.  Plenty of the shop guys run it on all of their bikes.  I'm in the Chicago 'burbs too and know a few of the local SRAM guys.  They are ALL running X1.  If they get really anal about it, they just swap out chainrings and/or cassettes depending on the event type, terrain, etc.

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EddNog

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Reply with quote  #14 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwepps

X1 vs. 2X:

I am personally a big fan of SRAM's X1 system.  I'm running two gravel bikes (Specialized Sequoia and 2018 Diverge Expert) in the SRAM Force X1 set up.  Both bikes are 44T up front with an 11x42 or 10x42 Cassette.  I've done several hilly gravel events on both bikes including the DK200 this past summer (some horrific & long climbs).  I've been an X1 convert since I ran it on my fatbike.  Yes - there are "gaps."  I don't find it to be an issue and if anything it's helped me to learn how to pedal within a slightly longer range of cadences.  Additionally, if you're riding on a nasty "B" road or some really nasty, big rock type gravel, dropping a chain while shifting is a non-issue.  

For you this is a personal decision (IMHO), but my LBS is a big proponent of SRAM overall and X1.  Plenty of the shop guys run it on all of their bikes.  I'm in the Chicago 'burbs too and know a few of the local SRAM guys.  They are ALL running X1.  If they get really anal about it, they just swap out chainrings and/or cassettes depending on the event type, terrain, etc.



Yup, same here; absolutely love 1X and so converted all of my bikes to 1X. I do run even wider range; 1x11 11-50 with a 44T on my road bike, 1x10 11-46 with a 38T on my gravel bike (extra-short gearing for single track riding) and 1x10 11-42 with a 30T on my plus hardtail. I run solely SunRace cassettes, absoluteBLACK oval chainrings and KMC X1xSL-DLC chains. The road and gravel bikes are SRAM while the MTB is Shimano (OneUp’d derailleur with an XTR shifter that lets me upshift multiple cogs in one sweep, which is nice).

-Ed
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dangle

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Reply with quote  #15 
Zman,

Let's cut right to it: You're not going to do this. Ever. You are extremely cost conscious of every decision and we know you're not going to pay retail for these parts and pay to have them installed. It will never happen. Your LBS is not going to give you 'credit' for the 1x parts, especially on a bike you purchased online. A 1x specific front brake is worthless to them.



You don't need to change the crank. SRAMs 1x and 2x cranks are the same thing, just different paint. They offset their 1x rings so they don't have to produce two different cranks and/or spiders. You would need to buy two chainrings and longer chainring bolts, that's it.

I have no idea if there's cable routing for a front derailleur on that specific frame.

SRAM officially says that rear derailleur is not compatible in a 2x configuration. Anything "X-Horizon" isn't supposed to work with front shifting. They work against the chain moving laterally up front. I haven't tried it to know if there's a way around it. Basically, you can add a 10 speed, long cage mountain bike derailleur to the list if you want to go 2x. 10 speed mountain and 11 speed road/cyclocross have the same cable pull. That's what a lot of people do to get wide range and strong chain retention with SRAM 11 speed road shifters. Even then, it could be a stretch to fit it with a 42 tooth cassette in the back. I can't say 42 tooth cassettes existed when I owned SRAM 10 speed.

If you ever pull the trigger on this bike, why not just try a smaller chainring up front? If you survived your other rides (lots of people walk nasty stuff) when "not in shape" with something like a 36:36 low gear, dropping down to a 36 or 38 single ring up front and 42 in the back (stock cassette) will be easier. It seems that most of the people complaining about 'gaps' in 1x drivetrains are the ones NOT riding 1x drivetrains. Oops, I didn't intend to continue yet another 1x vs 2x drivetrain.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #16 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dangle
Zman,

Let's cut right to it: You're not going to do this. Ever. You are extremely cost conscious of every decision and we know you're not going to pay retail for these parts and pay to have them installed. It will never happen. Your LBS is not going to give you 'credit' for the 1x parts, especially on a bike you purchased online. A 1x specific front brake is worthless to them.



You don't need to change the crank. SRAMs 1x and 2x cranks are the same thing, just different paint. The offset their 1x rings so they can use the same cranks. You would need to buy two chainrings and longer chainring bolts, that's it.

I have no idea if there's cable routing for a front derailleur on that specific frame.

SRAM officially says that rear derailleur is not compatible in a 2x configuration. They work against the chain moving laterally up front. Anything "X-Horizon" isn't supposed to work with front shifting. I haven't tried it to know if there's a way around it. Basically, you can add a 10 speed, long cage mountain bike derailleur to the list if you want to go 2x. 10 speed mountain and 11 speed road/cyclocross have the same cable pull. That's what a lot of people do to get wide range and strong chain retention with SRAM road shifters.

If you ever pull the trigger on this bike, why not just try a smaller chainring up front? If you survived your other rides (lots of people walk nasty stuff) when "not in shape" with something like a 36:36 low gear, dropping down to a 36 or 38 single ring up front and 42 in the back (stock cassette) will be easier. It seems that most of the people complaining about 'gaps' in 1x drivetrains are the ones NOT riding 1x drivetrains. Yuck, I didn't intend to continue yet another 1x vs 2x drivetrain.



Thanks Dangle there isn't an if I am going to buy this bike it is when which should be soon. I have a real nasty mt. climb here about 8-10 miles from my house. When I get the bike I plan on trying that climb and if that isn't too bad not changing the gearing at all because if I can climb that thing 3-4 miles @ 8% slope on nasty rutty non maintained fire tower type road I should be able to handle or climb anything. The plan then would be ride the bike until the wheels go bad and then do a wheel upgrade. That might take a lot of miles though. The bike does have the capability of going 2x as it is to have extra cable routing up front according to Velo news report I read. I guess just buy the bike and see if I like the 1x I did get a reply back this morning from a local hardcore mt. bike/gravel bike racer and I think he mentioned the 10 speed set up you were talking about along with some other gearing options.

Although I might seem like a tight wad on here if it is cycling related money isn't an option in my thinking. My major problem is I don't know squat about components for the gravel bikes. So no I don't know if I go to all the trouble of making the  bike 2x whether it would be as strong/good as a 2x set up from the factory. After I get this bike and if I don't like the 1x set up I would have no problems spending the buckaroos on the 2x set up if it is going to be a solid set up. The other thought process though is I have read as many ride reports as I could fine and on Lands End last year where because of the peanut butter mud they had down there that lots of bikes just become undone in their drive trains during this race. When I was out at the Pony Express they said 2 locals finished but spent something like $300 - $600 to get their bikes back in working order after the race. I have heard that 1x is the way to go in nasty conditions so yeah I probably would be much better off leaving the bike the way it comes from the factory.  

Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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dangle

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Reply with quote  #17 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman
I did get a reply back this morning from a local hardcore mt. bike/gravel bike racer and I think he mentioned the 10 speed set up you were talking about along with some other gearing options.


To be clear, it would still be 11 speeds in the back.

I'm sticking to my guns here. There's no way you would spend the money to convert that Roker Comp to 2x. Two chainrings, chainring bolts, front derailleur, rear derailleur, cable/housing, front shifter/brake combo, chain, cassette.....you might as well just buy another bike. Yes, it would be just as good or better than a factory setup.  It would probably be $600-700 from an LBS before any installation costs. Two hours of labor costs? I'm just guessing at that. 

It doesn't make fiscal sense from anybody looking at it just. If we go back to the 1x vs. 2x argument, it's only going to be about 13 distinctly different gears if you did keep that 11-42 cassette and do something like a 46/36 or 46/34 crankset. For as much as you have discussed weight and money, there's just no way. Run the options with the gearing calculator at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html and you will see that going 2x on a wide range cassette doesn't open up a lot more gearing. There's a TON of redundancy.

The wheel upgrade still makes sense. There's builders here that can make a great wheelset and suggest a great tire for your riding for not too much money.


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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #18 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dangle


To be clear, it would still be 11 speeds in the back.

I'm sticking to my guns here. There's no way you would spend the money to convert that Roker Comp to 2x. Two chainrings, chainring bolts, front derailleur, rear derailleur, cable/housing, front shifter/brake combo, chain, cassette.....you might as well just buy another bike. Yes, it would be just as good or better than a factory setup.  It would probably be $600-700 from an LBS before any installation costs. Two hours of labor costs? I'm just guessing at that. 

It doesn't make fiscal sense from anybody looking at it just. If we go back to the 1x vs. 2x argument, it's only going to be about 13 distinctly different gears if you did keep that 11-42 cassette and do something like a 46/36 or 46/34 crankset. For as much as you have discussed weight and money, there's just no way. Run the options with the gearing calculator at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html and you will see that going 2x on a wide range cassette doesn't open up a lot more gearing. There's a TON of redundancy.

The wheel upgrade still makes sense. There's builders here that can make a great wheelset and suggest a great tire for your riding for not too much money.




Hey Dangle thanks for that reality check. Yes the reason for the Roker purchase in my mind was that I could buy a somewhat cheap light race ready bike at a good price like I did with the Tamland. Truth be told if this wouldn't be the last year of mfg. of the Roker I could go out and get in shape riding the Tamland and see how the gravel racing goes. That not being the case I kind of rolling the dice a little bit thinking that I will like the 1x before ever riding one in actual operation or hilly races. I will do that gear calculations to see how much difference there is in the gearing. Probably what I am looking at really what the 2 bottom gears look like in gear inches for the 2x and 1x. If I had $3000 laying around I probably would either go out and either buy the Salsa Warbird in carbon or ti or the other bike I lust for is the now Lynskey GR260. Anyways thanks for that info/gear link/and the reality check. On the other thought process Shoota which posts on here said he was a weight weenie spent major bucks to drop weight on his Tamland and if I remember right on his msg. to me probably wouldn't do it again as it's still a mid 20's lbs. bike. I could always use the Tamland for bikepacking and training and then race on the Roker as they are from what I read and hear basically the same geometry bike.

Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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dangle

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Reply with quote  #19 
I still think you should grab that Roker if you can get it around the price you have mentioned before. It seems like a great bike with a good spec. Just get that 2x conversion out of your head.

Once you ride that Roker Comp, you will totally forget about the Tamland. Upgrade the wheels when the time is right and we'll all be jealous of your ride. You probably know the first parts to swap after that if you still need to scratch that weight weenie itch.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #20 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dangle
I still think you should grab that Roker if you can get it around the price you have mentioned before. It seems like a great bike with a good spec. Just get that 2x conversion out of your head. Once you ride that Roker Comp, you will totally forget about the Tamland. Upgrade the wheels when the time is right and we'll all be jealous of your ride. You probably know the first parts to swap after that if you still need to scratch that weight weenie itch.


Thanks for all your help Dangle. I do have some very minor warranty issues with the Tamland and if it works out they are going to sweeten the pot some after I buy the Roker. That even makes it more appealing. I will flat out say that I fell in love with gravel riding/racing this year. The Tamland is so much more fun that my Schwinn just above a Wally World bike was. I was just borderline of making the climbs with even being really out of shape so a 5 lb lighter bike should really make it sweet. I probably will wait at least another season of racing before I tried race across Iowa gravel or that ultra race in MN 260 and the 380 right.

The only thing that stuck out to me tonight in the difference of the two bikes is the Roker has a 20 mm longer head tube length which when I did the conversion was 25/32" I have heard/read of people cutting their head tubes so that shouldn't be a problem right. My Tamland is set up exactly the exact same way my race bike is and that seemed to work at the Pony Express. Truth be told I probably didn't get enough riding in on the Tamland to know exactly what the bike can do but still excited on getting the lighter Roker especially since this is suppose to be the last year for it.

BTW I don't think I will get the weight weenie itch if I buy the Roker except for wheel upgrades when needed. But then they say never say never right. lol 

Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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dangle

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Reply with quote  #21 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


The only thing that stuck out to me tonight in the difference of the two bikes is the Roker has a 20 mm longer head tube length which when I did the conversion was 25/32" I have heard/read of people cutting their head tubes so that shouldn't be a problem right.


The head tube is the part of the frame that the fork goes through. There's no cutting that down. Do you have any spacers between your stem and headset on your current fit? Or a picture of your stem (from the side) on the fork of your Tamland? Most people have spacers under their stems. If you have 20mm of spacers under your stem on the Tamland, that means you would take them off on the Roker and everything would fit you the same if the frame size and stem are the same.. You can cut off the excess fork sticking out the top. A shop should do that for less than what it would cost you to buy a hacksaw if you don't already have one and a 32 tpi blade. 
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #22 
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Originally Posted by dangle


The head tube is the part of the frame that the fork goes through. There's no cutting that down. Do you have any spacers between your stem and headset on your current fit? Or a picture of your stem (from the side) on the fork of your Tamland? Most people have spacers under their stems. If you have 20mm of spacers under your stem on the Tamland, that means you would take them off on the Roker and everything would fit you the same if the frame size and stem are the same.. You can cut off the excess fork sticking out the top. A shop should do that for less than what it would cost you to buy a hacksaw if you don't already have one and a 32 tpi blade. 


No as far as I know I don't have any spacers on my Tamland as straight from the factory I was able to get a LBS to set the bike up the same as my race bike which has worked just fine as my race bike was pro fitted quite a few years ago. The only thing that was done to my Tamland that I know of the LBS had to put 2 small shims on the front rotor/disk as it was making a ticking sound when I took it out for a test ride. The stats difference is just that 20 mm. Not sure why if the geometry's of the bike are pretty much close to being the same that why this sticks out as being different but looks like no big deal.

Do you know anybody on this forum that has done the Epic 150? Looks like a ride I am going to shoot for in 2018 even though it's early in the season.

Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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dangle

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Reply with quote  #23 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman
No as far as I know I don't have any spacers on my Tamland as straight from the factory I was able to get a LBS to set the bike up the same as my race bike which has worked just fine as my race bike was pro fitted quite a few years ago.


Do you have a picture of your Tamland that you could post here? It would help us figure out the fit thing.
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Fishman

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Reply with quote  #24 
I purchased the Roker 2017 last winter at the discounted price via Raleigh website. I made upgrades including the wheels to I9 AR25 - SRAM XG.  This season I rode it approx 2.5k miles on every sort of road/trail and weather condition southern VT and Western MA offer. IMO it handled all of it very well. I am not particularly fussy about bike fit nor do I seek to push my capabilities or my bike's capabilities to the limit. Before the Roker I spent my time between a older Specialized Roubaix (Carbon) and a older Felt F1X cross bike (alu). The Roker is easily my go to bike because fits my riding style and interests so well. I am happy with the 1X and the I9 wheels make a big difference.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #25 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishman
I purchased the Roker 2017 last winter at the discounted price via Raleigh website. I made upgrades including the wheels to I9 AR25 - SRAM XG.  This season I rode it approx 2.5k miles on every sort of road/trail and weather condition southern VT and Western MA offer. IMO it handled all of it very well. I am not particularly fussy about bike fit nor do I seek to push my capabilities or my bike's capabilities to the limit. Before the Roker I spent my time between a older Specialized Roubaix (Carbon) and a older Felt F1X cross bike (alu). The Roker is easily my go to bike because fits my riding style and interests so well. I am happy with the 1X and the I9 wheels make a big difference.


Thanks for that reply Fishman. May I ask what you paid for the Roker last winter @ the Corporate price to compare to what it is selling for now? I think the Corporate price now is $1799. Glad to hear that you luv your Roker and it has done well by you.

Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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