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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #51 
Quote:
Originally Posted by drwelby
Ugh yes, "freehub body" (brain wasn't working - food coma).

I'd also check to make sure both derailleur pulleys are spinning freely.

Just to confirm, you're seeing this problem when you're in the big chainring and the three smallest cogs?


Yes actually it is probably in the 2 smallest cogs. So now my next question is how could the free hub body be sticking already as I doubt this bike has more than 250 miles on it. It could be sticking new from the factory.


I log all my miles into bikejournal.com a free site.

miles on bike something like 568.5 Granted Kansas Pony Express 75 miler was really dusty and maybe 2-3 times in some heavy rain.


Thanks
Zman

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drwelby

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Reply with quote  #52 
If it's pretty new it could just be tight seals and need to break in. Maybe it needs some lubrication, or the hub is adjusted too tight. Though to answer your original concern, I doubt it has anything to do with the RoadLink.


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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #53 
Quote:
Originally Posted by drwelby


You get like a little kick in the pedals when you stop pedaling? Usually that's a sticky cassette body.



Took the bike to the LBS today. No sticky free wheel hub. Looks like since the road link was put on there is pressure on road link deraileur and when you stop pedaling real quick the chain drops causing the kick. His suggestion to fix the problem was putting on a mountain bike deraileur but that costs $150 just in parts. Probably not going that route as I only notice this while out riding on the road. Shortening the chain isn't an option as the lower gears wouldn't work then.

Zman

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cmcalpin

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Reply with quote  #54 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman



Took the bike to the LBS today. No sticky free wheel hub. Looks like since the road link was put on there is pressure on road link deraileur and when you stop pedaling real quick the chain drops causing the kick. His suggestion to fix the problem was putting on a mountain bike deraileur but that costs $150 just in parts. Probably not going that route as I only notice this while out riding on the road. Shortening the chain isn't an option as the lower gears wouldn't work then.

Zman


Do you do your own work? What kind of derailleur was that? My SLX clutch derailleur cost me 60 bucks or something like that. Sure it's not an XT but it is a nice one and works flawless.

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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #55 
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Originally Posted by cmcalpin


Do you do your own work? What kind of derailleur was that? My SLX clutch derailleur cost me 60 bucks or something like that. Sure it's not an XT but it is a nice one and works flawless.


No I don't do my own work but guessing that was the XT he just looked at the price on it.

Zman

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TiGeo

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Reply with quote  #56 
You can not run a mtb derailleur with a clutch with Shimano road shifters...period.  The only clutch option for Shimano is to run a XTR DI r. der. with DI shifters.  The only true clutch option is Sram for 1x road.  I have this same issue and I just easy off the power when I am in the small cogs and don't have much drama with it anymore.  I also run a Praxis chain guide which helps keep things from going pear shaped.
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drwelby

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Reply with quote  #57 
Based on the price it probably includes a Tanpan to convert the cable pull ratio.
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TiGeo

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Reply with quote  #58 
Opps...yes..forgot the Tanpan.  I stand corrected.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #59 
Quote:
Originally Posted by drwelby
Based on the price it probably includes a Tanpan to convert the cable pull ratio.


I have heard the term tanpan before so what does it do. Lengthen the cable pull or shorten it or is it all about tension?

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Zman

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cmcalpin

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Reply with quote  #60 
Quote:
Originally Posted by drwelby
Based on the price it probably includes a Tanpan to convert the cable pull ratio.


That’s probably right. TiGeo is right. My SLX is on my bike with Jones bars. On my wolverine I run Sram mtb clutch rear and and happy with it. Even the x7 derailleur only cost me around 70-75 bucks I think. That was 2 years ago

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cmcalpin

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Reply with quote  #61 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


I have heard the term tanpan before so what does it do. Lengthen the cable pull or shorten it or is it all about tension?

Thanks
Zman


It is a multiplier. Changes the amount of cable pulled vs how much was actually pulled by the shifter.

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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #62 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmcalpin
It is a multiplier. Changes the amount of cable pulled vs how much was actually pulled by the shifter.


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Zman

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ITry2Hide

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Reply with quote  #63 
I have a tanpan on my Haanjo Trail Carbon, XTR Mid length, and an 11-45 cog set in the back. The Tanpan is not easy to dial in correctly, IMHO...

I'm not a very good climber, and having the extra low gears really helps.
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TiGeo

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Reply with quote  #64 
^^^That was my concern with using it...just too much of a rig job to me.  The clutch derailleur isn't that critical and the f. chain guide really sorts most of it.
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HollyBoni

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Reply with quote  #65 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TiGeo
^^^That was my concern with using it...just too much of a rig job to me.  The clutch derailleur isn't that critical and the f. chain guide really sorts most of it.


If it was up to me all bikes would have clutch RDs. [biggrin] It's so good. I love the complete silence.

Now when I jump on a bike with a "regular" RD and go over a bump, jump a curb etc and I hear the chain slapping my first thought is that something is broken. 

I'm not sure if i'll ever be able to go back to a regular RD, that was one of the reasons I went with SRAM 1x. 


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drwelby

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Reply with quote  #66 
The 2x10 Sram GX rear derailleur has a clutch and is "Exact Actuation" so it should work with the road shifters.
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HollyBoni

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Reply with quote  #67 
Yeah I know about all the options, cable pulls etc. I read some very bad things about the 10spd GX tho. Appareantly it's common for the RD to develop huge play at the upper pivot. 





Anyway i'm not planning on going back to 2x for a while unless a groupset comes out with the specifications I want.
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alexbentley

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Reply with quote  #68 
As I'm looking into a new bike, this has been super helpful to me.  I live near Malibu in SoCal.  It is all about steep climbs here.  My mountain bike is a Specialized Epic FSR Pro Carbon.  I have a 1X with a 34 in the front and a 50 in the back and I sometimes even struggle to smoothly spin out a steep climb.

I'm thinking about getting a new Lauf True Grit bike but customize the drivetrain and bias the bike towards easy climbing.  Was thinking about a 38 in the front and a 46 in the back.  That would get me close to my Mt bike ratio but it is a lighter bike so I think that could work.

Would welcome any thoughts on that setup as I'm a gravel newbie and not even close to an expert on this.  
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simplemind

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Reply with quote  #69 
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbentley
As I'm looking into a new bike, this has been super helpful to me.  I live near Malibu in SoCal.  It is all about steep climbs here.  My mountain bike is a Specialized Epic FSR Pro Carbon.  I have a 1X with a 34 in the front and a 50 in the back and I sometimes even struggle to smoothly spin out a steep climb.

I'm thinking about getting a new Lauf True Grit bike but customize the drivetrain and bias the bike towards easy climbing.  Was thinking about a 38 in the front and a 46 in the back.  That would get me close to my Mt bike ratio but it is a lighter bike so I think that could work.

Would welcome any thoughts on that setup as I'm a gravel newbie and not even close to an expert on this.  



I'm building a bike for the wifie.  Because I already have an XTR wheelset I have to go with a MTB cassette, so I'm going to try an XT Crank with a Wolf Tooth 36 ring and  an XT 11-46 cassette.  We ride in Colo a lot, so I think that might be a good setup for her.
If anyone thinks this is a bad idea, please chime in!

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GHC

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Reply with quote  #70 
RE the part of this thread aimed at MECHANICAL clutched derailleurs with road shifters..... realizing this thread is a little old, so to update a little as it relates to mechanical clutched rear derailleurs that can be ran with shimano road shifters, Ultegra now offers a clutched rear derailleur that is designed (according to them, I haven't ridden it) to be run on 1x or 2x- up to 16 tooth systems paired with 11 speed cassettes up to their 11-34 (and probably a little more 36?? safely but that is just a guess on the 36 part).

At any rate, might be worth looking into beyond me just cutting and pasting info if riding a 2x system on gravel while encountering significant wash boards/rough/cobble etc.  (or if you are playing with wider gear ratio's per the discussion here)  

Again, I haven't ridden Shimano's clutch with this road shifter combo.....but its the

Ultegra RD-RX800 mechanical (also have DI2 version)

https://glorycycles.com/shimano-ultegra-rx-rear-derailleur-with-chain-stabalizer-rd-rx800/

https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/news/article/shimano-ultegra-rx-road-clutch-rear-derailleur-mechanical-and-di2-52018/

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-rx/RD-RX800-GS.html
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cmcalpin

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Reply with quote  #71 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GHC
RE the part of this thread aimed at MECHANICAL clutched derailleurs with road shifters..... realizing this thread is a little old, so to update a little as it relates to mechanical clutched rear derailleurs that can be ran with shimano road shifters, Ultegra now offers a clutched rear derailleur that is designed (according to them, I haven't ridden it) to be run on 1x or 2x- up to 16 tooth systems paired with 11 speed cassettes up to their 11-34 (and probably a little more 36?? safely but that is just a guess on the 36 part).

At any rate, might be worth looking into beyond me just cutting and pasting info if riding a 2x system on gravel while encountering significant wash boards/rough/cobble etc.  (or if you are playing with wider gear ratio's per the discussion here)  

Again, I haven't ridden Shimano's clutch with this road shifter combo.....but its the

Ultegra RD-RX800 mechanical (also have DI2 version)

https://glorycycles.com/shimano-ultegra-rx-rear-derailleur-with-chain-stabalizer-rd-rx800/

https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/news/article/shimano-ultegra-rx-road-clutch-rear-derailleur-mechanical-and-di2-52018/

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-rx/RD-RX800-GS.html


If it’s anything like their medium cage SLX clutch mountain bike derailleur that I’m running on my mountain bike, you can run a lot more than 36 tooth if you crank the B tension screw in. Food to chew on

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TiGeo

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Reply with quote  #72 
I was ready to get one when it came out - planned on using my Road Link with it (currently have an Ultegra short cage with a 42 up front and a 11-40 out back.  Decided the heck with it - going with Sram Force 1 for a built for purpose 1x drivetrain...done with the ghetto 1x setup.  At some point, Shimano should develop a proper 1x road set up including wide-range r. cassette, derailleur for said cassette, and a shifter/brake lever set with a left side lever-only.  There is such a market for this and Sram is winning.
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jeanjacques

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Reply with quote  #73 
Hello,
On my gravel, one year ago, I was with 10s 1x 38 front 11-36 cassette: lacking at high end on flat road, every time on the second cog, bad chain line.
Upgrade to 11s 10-42 cassette, still 38 front: better on the 38/10 but same problem to be all the time on the second and third cog.
Upgrade to 44 front: better, chainline going up one tooth throughout the cassette (38/12=44/14 ; 38/14=44/16 , etc).

44 front and a 10-42 cover pretty the same range of a 50-34 with a 11-32 cassette but after one month of fast road/path riding with this gravel, I begin absolutely tired to never have the good pace. I can't imagine follow a good group ride with a 1x system.

But the 50-34 with a 11-32 cassette is not a good solution, still big gape and don't have the 16t cog (one of the most useful). 
So, I already had the Rotor 3D+ 1x crankset, I put a 46-30 spidering with a Sram 11-28 cassette. A part of the pretty low weight (429g (170mm) + 144g), the top range is pretty good for climbing and 46/11 is equal at the 50/12: not too bad. And the 16t cog isn't missing.

About the weight, there is no gain with dedicated Sram 1x:

Shifter - derailleur - cassette - chainrings - chain - cable and housing

Force 1 273g - Force 1 256g - XG-1199 10-42 272g - Garbaruk NW 44t 76g - Sram XX1* 252g - 125g
Force 320g - Force rear 170g / front + clamp 96g - XG-1190 11-28 185g - 46-30 120g - KMC X11SL 228g - 150g

1x = 1254g
2x= 1269g

*the only one long enough for 44-42 without use two quick links. 46-28 need a shorter chain.

Trying to make my first post useful, sorry for the length [wink]
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TiGeo

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Reply with quote  #74 
Decided to stop f'ing around with the ghetto-Shimano 1x I had and went with the real-deal...Sram Force 1.  Amazing.  So happy I pulled the trigger.  No more bouncing chain.  Hydro brakes are better than the cable-pull TRP Hy-Rds I had.  Lost a pound off my bike.  Saved some money on the cassette and went Sunrace 11-42 vs. the Sram 10-42 which would have required a XD driver...would be a bit lighter than the Sunrace but for $65/465g...I'll take it. CruX.jpg 
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