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Brennus

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Reply with quote  #26 
I've ridden a lot of miles on 2x and a lot of miles on 1x. You can make either work.

Most folks running gravel 1x are using 38t up to 45t chainrings. I started with a 38 and later moved up to a 40. With an 11-36 on the back that's enough range for the type of terrain I'm riding...which is characterized by some super steep hills but no climb that is more than 500 feet.

One word of caution, though, other riders will figure out what your chainring is. If it's 36 or 38 they'll know they can spin out you just by riding at 30mph or more for a few miles. Riders use that trick on me quite frequently even with the 40t chainring. But if you're comfortable with BMX-like cadence maybe it's not a concern.

One more thumb up for 1x simplicity! Gravel racing can be hard on the front end shifting mechanism & I spent plenty of race time yanking the chain out from between the bottom bracket shell and the crank arms. Had the chain catch and jam between the large and small chainrings before & rip off the rear derailleur. None of those problems with 1x, but you do have to pay extra attention to chain length...make sure there is enough chain tension to keep the chain on the chainring when the rear derailleur is on the small cog. Otherwise you'll hit a bump and drop the chain.
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bnystrom

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Reply with quote  #27 
Tim,

I agree that the gearing jumps aren't as noticeable off-road, but on-road - either dirt or paved - I notice them quite a bit (I'm used to a 50/34 with a 13-26 cassette on the road). Given that I'm already less than happy with the feel of the 11-32 cassettes I'm currently using, the larger gearing jumps on an 11-40 cassette are not a desirable option for me.

Once I change the crank to 44 x 30, I'll probably switch the cassette on one set of wheels (used primarily on roads) to a 12-28 and the perhaps switch the other set (used primarily off-road) to a 12-32 at some point by replacing the 12 tooth cog and inserting a 15 tooth cog.

Again, if your setup works for you, that's all that matters. There is no right or wrong here, just differences in personal preferences.
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tim.wilson.chicago

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Reply with quote  #28 
bnystrom,

What crank are you planning to use for 44x30? This might be of interest: I recomputed the graph for 44/30/12-28 (green) v 42/11-40 (purple). Definitely tighter jumps through the cruising range with that 44/12-28 combo, especially above 20mph.

Screen Shot 2017-07-24 at 1.21.40 PM.png 

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bnystrom

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Reply with quote  #29 
Sugino makes three cranks that are available with that gearing, the OX601D, the OX901D Classic Compact Plus and the the OX901D Compact Plus. The latter of the 901's (my choice) is the lightest and the nicest looking IMO, but the 601 is ~$100 cheaper. In addition to the 44/30 option, you can buy smaller, they just don't offer them as a complete crank. There is a vendor (Alex Cycles?) that allows you to custom configure a Sugino crank, but their pricing is much higher than ordering directly from Sugino in Japan. I'm planning to order one this week, perhaps even tonight.

If you go any smaller, you'll likely need to use a MTB front derailleur, in case that matters.

FSA is making a sub-compact SL-K modular BB386EVO Crankset that's lighter (it's carbon), but only goes down to 46/30 and is nearly impossible to find currently.
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kklasman

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Reply with quote  #30 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dangle


Impressive. What rear derailleur are you using?


from my Seven's parts spec:

Crank Set White Industries VBR Road - 170mm, black
Chainrings White Industries VBR - 44/30t (outside Wolf Tooth recommendation of 10t gap)
Bottom Bracket White Industries JIS Square $ - english, 68 x 113, stainless
Brake / Shifter Levers Shimano ST-5800-L - 11sp mechanical/mechanical
Front Derailleur Shimano FD-5800-L 
Rear Derailleur Shimano RD-M8000-GS - 2x 11-42t
Hanger adapter Wolf Tooth TanPan - converts road lever pull to match mtb rear derailleur
Cassette Shimano CS-M7000 - 11-40t
Chain Shimano CN-HG600-11

I could use a chain catcher to keep the chain from dropping on downshifts. I don't think these chainrings upshift as well as Shimano rings, or maybe I'm just a sloppy shifter.
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dangle

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Reply with quote  #31 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kklasman


from my Seven's parts spec:

Crank Set White Industries VBR Road - 170mm, black
Chainrings White Industries VBR - 44/30t (outside Wolf Tooth recommendation of 10t gap)
Bottom Bracket White Industries JIS Square $ - english, 68 x 113, stainless
Brake / Shifter Levers Shimano ST-5800-L - 11sp mechanical/mechanical
Front Derailleur Shimano FD-5800-L 
Rear Derailleur Shimano RD-M8000-GS - 2x 11-42t
Hanger adapter Wolf Tooth TanPan - converts road lever pull to match mtb rear derailleur
Cassette Shimano CS-M7000 - 11-40t
Chain Shimano CN-HG600-11

I could use a chain catcher to keep the chain from dropping on downshifts. I don't think these chainrings upshift as well as Shimano rings, or maybe I'm just a sloppy shifter.


Thanks for the reply. I figured you had to be using a mt bike rear derailleur with that much chain to manage. There's a lot of thought and money into that build.

How is pedaling in your 30 front and 40 rear?
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Nubster

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Reply with quote  #32 
My preferred drivetrain is 1x1. Certainly not doable for all the areas I ride though. For those I ride a 2x11. I tried 1x11 and it was ok. But I wasn't a huge fan of the jumps between gears. With more time I'm sure I could have gotten used to it or if not I probably could have swapped a cog or two in the troubling part of the cassette. 
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kklasman

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Reply with quote  #33 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dangle


Thanks for the reply. I figured you had to be using a mt bike rear derailleur with that much chain to manage. There's a lot of thought and money into that build.

How is pedaling in your 30 front and 40 rear?


Indeed, it took a lot of time to work all that out. I'm an old randonneur and ultramarathoner and on the 15%+ grades (thankfully somewhat short) I encounter here in New England that 30x40 is much appreciated. Granted, I'm riding roads mostly and on gravel it might be hard to stay upright going that slow, but on roads it's fine. The Seven can handle 44c tires and one day I'll go back to do D2R2 on it.
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cmcalpin

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Reply with quote  #34 
I want to modify my earlier reply. I primarily ride alone on gravel. I don't have a group to ride with. 1x works excellent for me.......BUT now I am on ragbrai and I also did the optional gravel loop. I am discovering that my 11x42 rear gear, while having plenty of top and low end, has poor steps between gears and it is REALLY noticeable when you get fatigued. One gear is too low to keep up with your group and the next is too high. You are screwed and you end up getting slowly left by the group as they are 1-2 mph faster than you and you can't do anything about it. Ask me how I know lol. I bonked BAD Sunday and needed that in between gear to hang with the pack and I didn't have it. The only solution for me is to drop my front ring from 42 down to 38 or 36 and then put my 11x32 or 11x36 cassette back on to get tighter spacing and still have sufficient low end but then I don't have my top end. Not sure whether I want to send the money to convert it it not but I don't know any other remedy to this except 2x or 3x. I could have used an 11x28 rear cassette Sunday but I don't have the front gearing to accommodate. And fwiw I ride gravel in southern Iowa and have around 800 miles total this year and over 30000 feet in elevation so I need my low end. 42 front and 11x28 rear won't cut it sadly.....
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dangle

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Reply with quote  #35 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmcalpin
I....... have around 800 miles total this year


I found your problem 😀
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cmcalpin

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Reply with quote  #36 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dangle


I found your problem 😀


I will laugh at your comment...😁 I am not someone who rides all the time. But I try to ride when I feel like it lol

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dangle

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Reply with quote  #37 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmcalpin


I will laugh at your comment...😁 I am not someone who rides all the time. But I try to ride when I feel like it lol


Enjoy RAGBRAI! After such awful weather last week, you guys lucked out this week.
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cmcalpin

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Reply with quote  #38 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dangle


Enjoy RAGBRAI! After such awful weather last week, you guys lucked out this week.


Yes it is gorgeous weather! Might rain tomorrow lol but thank you!

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TiGeo

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Reply with quote  #39 
Bike came with 50/34 and a 11-28...went to 1x 42 with a 11-40...love it.  Yeah, the jumps are larger in a few spots but it's not a big deal to me.  Have considered going to a 11-36 with a 38 to tighten up the spacing but will loose a little higher end which probably isn't a big deal for the type of riding I do so I stick with what I have.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #40 
Here's my dilemna. This last season was my first year of gravel riding after being hit/clipped by a drunk in Jan. on a  night ride. I spent Easter alone so I had lots of time doing some bike searching and found the Raleigh Corporate discount over at Bike forums.

Bought the 2016 Raleigh Tamland 1 for $799 and $49 tax

Right after getting the bike I had some major medical issues mainly collarbone nerve pain for about 3 months which has since gone away. Right out of the box I tried climbing my local mt. which is at 3 miles 7-8% grade with nasty washboard and ruts and tough climbing. It is worse coming off it. At first the bike scared the jeebers out of me on the descents as I couldn't get the bike to stop. The rear disk brake caliper wasn't adjusted right and now works/brakes fine.

I had the Sram 11 x 36 put on the bike with the road link. I don't know what you call it either chaining or something else. But when I am in the 50th high gear out in the last 2-3 gears  and stop pedaling it grabs or has a funny feeling.

Now the problem.

I know for a fact that I wasn't in the best shape I could have been this summer. You might be able to fake it out on the road but not gravel riding/racing. I want to buy the Roker since this is the last year for it.

I found a 2016 used one for $1400 but it is 2x. The 2017 will be around $1799 + $100 tax. The only problem I guess I fear is buying the 2016 and not have enough gearing like I had on the Tamland and then having the same problem I am having with the Sram 11 x 36 set up I have on it now.

I have always kind of drooled over the Roker(after I bought the Tamland and reading some ride reports on it)but bought the Tamland for the cheap price because if I didn't fall in love with gravel riding/racing(which I have) I wouldn't have much invested in a bike.

I now want to do all the bad ass ultra gravel rides out there get my butt in shape and see which one is the hardest even though weather conditions dictate that some of the time.

Would I be able to make any adjustments to the 2017 Roker if it didn't climb as well as I thought it would. Would test it out on the local mt. here and if that goes well it would climb anything else. Yes I know I have to get in shape but a 5 lb. lighter bike for the long rides will make riding them a little bit easier.

Thanks
For the help.
Zman

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cmcalpin

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Reply with quote  #41 
Couple months ago I got an oval chain ring from Wolf tooth. And as far as one by drivetrains go I am now a believer in adding one of those to the front. It really smooths up the pedal stroke.
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owly

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Reply with quote  #42 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiGeo
Bike came with 50/34 and a 11-28...went to 1x 42 with a 11-40...love it.  Yeah, the jumps are larger in a few spots but it's not a big deal to me.  Have considered going to a 11-36 with a 38 to tighten up the spacing but will loose a little higher end which probably isn't a big deal for the type of riding I do so I stick with what I have.


Really like the 11-36 with 38 for my riding. There is a jump between the 3rd and 2nd smallest cog, but I spend most of my flat riding in the 3rd cog, which I find a sweet spot.
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TiGeo

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Reply with quote  #43 
Not too many 11 speed 11-36 cassettes out there..Sram makes one but it seems hard to find as does Sunrace..again...not common.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #44 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiGeo
Not too many 11 speed 11-36 cassettes out there..Sram makes one but it seems hard to find as does Sunrace..again...not common.


I don't think the 11 x 36 is hard to find at all. Shimano just doesn't make one. When I ask my LBS to find one he had it in a couple of days. Sram 11 x 36(he might even had it in stock I can't remember)and then hooked up the road link with that.

I still don't have my question answered though. Can anybody tell me what when I am in the 2-3 tallest gears with the road link and stop pedaling the drive train makes a jerky feeling. I need to decide which Roker to buy and if I had to go to the 11 x 36 and 2x that I have now on the Tamland I sure wouldn't be a happy camper.

Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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drwelby

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Reply with quote  #45 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman

Can anybody tell me what when I am in the 2-3 tallest gears with the road link and stop pedaling the drive train makes a jerky feeling.


You get like a little kick in the pedals when you stop pedaling? Usually that's a sticky cassette body.
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Zurichman

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Reply with quote  #46 
Quote:
Originally Posted by drwelby


You get like a little kick in the pedals when you stop pedaling? Usually that's a sticky cassette body.


Thanks for that info drwelby. I am not sure that is it though. It's a rather new cassette. I will try getting it clean though. My thought is that the LBS has the chain too long or short and it isn't liking that combination. Any thoughts on that?


Thanks
Zman

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If it was easy it wouldn't be a memory. You just hope you don't have all your memories in the same ride. been there dun that Zman
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Sciguy

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Reply with quote  #47 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


Thanks for that info drwelby. I am not sure that is it though. It's a rather new cassette. I will try getting it clean though. My thought is that the LBS has the chain too long or short and it isn't liking that combination. Any thoughts on that?


Thanks
Zman


Zman,

I believe drwelby is referring to the freehub that the cassette is mounted on. It contains the mechanism that ratchets when you coast. If that's sticky then it will transfer some energy to the chain that you're feeling.

Hugh
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cmcalpin

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Reply with quote  #48 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zurichman


Thanks for that info drwelby. I am not sure that is it though. It's a rather new cassette. I will try getting it clean though. My thought is that the LBS has the chain too long or short and it isn't liking that combination. Any thoughts on that?


Thanks
Zman


Cassette has nothing to do with it. The proper terminology is a sticky "freehub". The cassette is nothing more than a fixed set of gears with no moving parts. The part that it slides onto is the freehub body. That houses the bearings and the ratcheting pawls to allow you to stop pedaling and coast.

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TiGeo

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Reply with quote  #49 
I get it and it causes my chain to jump off.  Combination tight freehub and heavy cassette; I don't notice it with my lighter CX racing cassette (Ultegra 11-32).  My new DT350s do it but I assume they will loosen up as they get used.
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drwelby

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Reply with quote  #50 
Ugh yes, "freehub body" (brain wasn't working - food coma).

I'd also check to make sure both derailleur pulleys are spinning freely.

Just to confirm, you're seeing this problem when you're in the big chainring and the three smallest cogs?
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